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Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair

To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
From: Dale Withroder <dale@pro-mentoring.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 14:05:28 -0600
should the steering wheel be black, or the interior color?


At 02:28 PM 12/05/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>Mike, I plan to put one coat of primer on the wheel, then 2-3 coats of black
>enamel.....then 2-3 coats of clearcoat.  Some of the other list members used
>this process and say it seems to work for years.  I'll post a report on the
>process as soon as I'm finished.  HOPEFULLY, it will be a positive report.
>
>Larry Kephart has an excellent article on his webpage regarding steering
>wheel restoration.  The address is........
>http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2000/wip4a.htm  Thanks Larry for doing such
>a great job documenting the process.
>
>Good luck with your wheel, Mike!
>Tom Caperton
>47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
>tcape@weblnk.net
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Passnb4U@aol.com>
>To: <tcape@weblnk.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 11:58 AM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair....shaping wheel
>
>
>> In a message dated 12/5/00 7:13:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>tcape@weblnk.net
>> writes:
>>
>> > Well, I'm moving right along with the restoration of the steering wheel
>on
>> >  my '47-2.  I washed the wheel with Fast Orange hand cleaner and got all
>the
>> >  gunk off.  I then cut the cracks with a Dremel tool to make room for
>the
>> J-B
>> >  Weld.  Now that the J-BW has dried, I need to cut it down and shape it
>to
>> >  the wheel.  What's the best tool to use in doing this....round
>> >  file....rasp...other tools??  This is my first time working with J-B
>Weld,
>> >  but I assume I won't be able to just sand it down to where it blends
>with
>> >  the shape of the wheel.  I'd sure appreciate your help with this.  And
>a
>> >  special thanks to all the folks who supplied the information on
>restoring
>> >  the wheel.  I wouldn't have attempted this if you hadn't jumped in with
>> such
>> >  good instructions and advice.
>> >
>> >  One additional comment and question......When I cut the cracks out with
>the
>> >  Dremel tool, I think I cut them too deep.  I cut all the way down to
>the
>> >  metal core....which left a pretty deep rut to fill.  Is it necessary to
>cut
>> >  that far down?  Can you just cut just a little way down into the crack
>and
>> >  still get the J-B Weld or epoxy to stick in there OK and not crack
>again in
>> >  the future?  I'll soon be restoring the steering wheel on a '29 F**d
>and
>> >  don't want to make the same mistakes twice.  Thanks in advance for your
>> >  help!
>> >  Tom Caperton
>> >  47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
>> >  tcape@weblnk.net
>>
>>
>>   Hi Tom,
>>
>>   I actually saw a guy cut the whole section of the crack out...made about
>a
>> 1/2inch gap, then filled with an epoxy-type stuff...then used a narrow
>> sanding drum on a drill to shape it...don't know if it was necessary, but
>he
>> sure came out with a nice looking match.
>>
>>   What are you using for paint that won't come off in your hands?
>>
>> Mike
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
--
Dale Withroder       PH: 1-888-233-8469
dale@pro-mentoring.com                       FAX: 1-800-669-1132
multimedia development         http://www.pro-mentoring.com
Professional Mentoring, LLC     ICQ:  13411058
--
Between two evils, I always pick the one I never tried before.
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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