oletrucks
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair

To: Jon Kunkel <jonkunkel@home.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 08:11:16 -0500
I have a 51 and 52 with tan wheels. They look to be original.

Grant
50 Chevy 3100
52 GMC 150

Jon Kunkel wrote:

> I am in the process of painting my cab interior.  Bought 2 quarts of the
> paint from Jim Carter.  Works great, I bought the clear coat paint locally.
> The paint for the steering wheel and steering column was originally brown,
> and different from the interior color,  but in 1951 they went to black with
> most vehicles.
> Jon 50 3104
> Chicago burbs
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Stephens" <intubated@earthlink.net>
> To: "Dale Withroder" <dale@pro-mentoring.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 3:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
>
> > All right!  I am glad to see this list reverting to the task at hand; old
> > trucks and our work on them.
> > Jim Carter sells paint which he says is the specific color for the
> steering
> > column , wheel, etc.  Has anyone used this product?  At $35 a pint, does
> > anyone know of a cheaper alternative?  Where is Bob ADler when you need
> him!
> > Brian Stephens
> > 49 3104
> > Owasso, OK
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dale Withroder" <dale@pro-mentoring.com>
> > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 2:05 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
> >
> >
> > > should the steering wheel be black, or the interior color?
> > >
> > >
> > > At 02:28 PM 12/05/2000 -0500, you wrote:
> > > >Mike, I plan to put one coat of primer on the wheel, then 2-3 coats of
> > black
> > > >enamel.....then 2-3 coats of clearcoat.  Some of the other list members
> > used
> > > >this process and say it seems to work for years.  I'll post a report on
> > the
> > > >process as soon as I'm finished.  HOPEFULLY, it will be a positive
> > report.
> > > >
> > > >Larry Kephart has an excellent article on his webpage regarding
> steering
> > > >wheel restoration.  The address is........
> > > >http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2000/wip4a.htm  Thanks Larry for doing
> > such
> > > >a great job documenting the process.
> > > >
> > > >Good luck with your wheel, Mike!
> > > >Tom Caperton
> > > >47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >From: <Passnb4U@aol.com>
> > > >To: <tcape@weblnk.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > >Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 11:58 AM
> > > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair....shaping wheel
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> In a message dated 12/5/00 7:13:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > > >> writes:
> > > >>
> > > >> > Well, I'm moving right along with the restoration of the steering
> > wheel
> > > >on
> > > >> >  my '47-2.  I washed the wheel with Fast Orange hand cleaner and
> got
> > all
> > > >the
> > > >> >  gunk off.  I then cut the cracks with a Dremel tool to make room
> for
> > > >the
> > > >> J-B
> > > >> >  Weld.  Now that the J-BW has dried, I need to cut it down and
> shape
> > it
> > > >to
> > > >> >  the wheel.  What's the best tool to use in doing this....round
> > > >> >  file....rasp...other tools??  This is my first time working with
> J-B
> > > >Weld,
> > > >> >  but I assume I won't be able to just sand it down to where it
> blends
> > > >with
> > > >> >  the shape of the wheel.  I'd sure appreciate your help with this.
> > And
> > > >a
> > > >> >  special thanks to all the folks who supplied the information on
> > > >restoring
> > > >> >  the wheel.  I wouldn't have attempted this if you hadn't jumped in
> > with
> > > >> such
> > > >> >  good instructions and advice.
> > > >> >
> > > >> >  One additional comment and question......When I cut the cracks out
> > with
> > > >the
> > > >> >  Dremel tool, I think I cut them too deep.  I cut all the way down
> to
> > > >the
> > > >> >  metal core....which left a pretty deep rut to fill.  Is it
> necessary
> > to
> > > >cut
> > > >> >  that far down?  Can you just cut just a little way down into the
> > crack
> > > >and
> > > >> >  still get the J-B Weld or epoxy to stick in there OK and not crack
> > > >again in
> > > >> >  the future?  I'll soon be restoring the steering wheel on a '29
> F**d
> > > >and
> > > >> >  don't want to make the same mistakes twice.  Thanks in advance for
> > your
> > > >> >  help!
> > > >> >  Tom Caperton
> > > >> >  47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > > >> >  tcape@weblnk.net
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>   Hi Tom,
> > > >>
> > > >>   I actually saw a guy cut the whole section of the crack out...made
> > about
> > > >a
> > > >> 1/2inch gap, then filled with an epoxy-type stuff...then used a
> narrow
> > > >> sanding drum on a drill to shape it...don't know if it was necessary,
> > but
> > > >he
> > > >> sure came out with a nice looking match.
> > > >>
> > > >>   What are you using for paint that won't come off in your hands?
> > > >>
> > > >> Mike
> > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > > >
> > > --
> > > Dale Withroder       PH: 1-888-233-8469
> > > dale@pro-mentoring.com                       FAX: 1-800-669-1132
> > > multimedia development         http://www.pro-mentoring.com
> > > Professional Mentoring, LLC     ICQ:  13411058
> > > --
> > > Between two evils, I always pick the one I never tried before.
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>