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Re: [oletrucks] '49 3100 SOLVED - well almost...help.

To: Holly and Chris Mills <scmills@tntech.edu>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] '49 3100 SOLVED - well almost...help.
From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com>
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 11:42:23 -0500
If you take the manifold off and separate it from the intake you can see the
flapper tack welded to the shaft. If you grind the tacks off and remove the
flapper you MAY  be able to drive the shaft out and clean up the bores. Put back
in and tack weld together. I have successfully done this with one of mine.

Grant
50 Chevy 3100
52 GMC 150

Holly and Chris Mills wrote:

> Well I'm a bit more edu-ma-cated tonight after giving the exhaust manifold
> flapper a very good looking over.
>
> Without a shop manual my understanding of the flapper was all wrong.
>
> I understood what the flapper did but not how it was actuated.
>
> Now I know.
>
> I thought the rod from the gas pedal moved it or 'persuaded' it and the
> spring maybe gave the flapper the final orders whether to be open or closed.
>
> Now I know it is wholly automatic and connected to nothing except the
> counterweight on one end and the spring on the other.
>
> Every thing looks intact and in good order EXCEPT that it is stuck - VERY
> stuck.
>
> Now where I need some help is knowing whether it is stuck open (and heating
> the carb) or closed. No wait - I know it's stuck closed because the carb is
> either freezing up inside or the poor atomization of the fuel is causing my
> engine's missing and studdering.
>
> What I REALLY need to know is which way to try to persuade this thing to
> rotate! I first want to try to persuade it with a screwdriver and some
> spray oil before I start pulling manifolds (and breaking studs!).
>
> If your head is where the radiator is, and looking at the counterweight on
> the flapper shaft, then on a clock face the counterweight would be pointing
> at 1 o'clock.
>
> Now is it supposed to rotate towards the block or towards the fender?
>
> I can make the counterweighted end of the shaft creak a little so either
> the flapper or the end of the rod where the spring is the binding portion -
> I think. I've already proven to myself that the spring end of the shaft is
> pretty weak so I don't want to twist with my pliers there anymore.
>
> I thought I might try to drift the shaft forwards and backwards and mix
> that with some rotation persuation.
>
> If I had a torch I might try a little heat but in the name of not burning
> my truck to the ground I'll hold off on that solution.
>
> All of the tuneup adjustments seemed to make things better but this is the
> final chapter and very necessary in this cold winter weather.
>
> I did have the carb about as rich as I could (for best idle) but it was
> simply a band-aid for the cold carb and turned my normally reasonably
> frugal truck into a dinosaur juice glutton.
>
> I leaned it back out and it seems to be better but the idle is crummy (cold
> carb).
>
> On the subject of carbs I found a catalog that identified the Zenith, the
> Rochestor and the Carter as all being found on my model truck. So I can use
> either carb I have. Good to know.
>
> So can anyone help me rotate this shaft the right way from the start so I
> don't break anything (more <grin>)?
>
> Thanks a bunch everyone!
>
> CHRIS in Tennessee
> scmills@tntech.edu
> ICQ: 5944649
>
> '78 Westy (maybe some CIS injection,Corvair, turbos --- hmmmm...)
> '65 Beetle (Type IV powered)
> '99 CR-V 5 speed
> '49 Chevy 3100 Pickup
> '81 Honda CB900C
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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