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Re: [oletrucks] Wet sanding

To: "oletrucks posting" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Wet sanding
From: "Jon Kunkel" <jonkunkel@home.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 16:12:52 -0600
I use these dense foam pads, which come in different density and have been
very successful in wet sanding with these.  I picked them up at a local car
show very cheap (about $2 for a package of 3).  They are readily available
at your local body shop supply store.

Worked great on my interior.  As I have no feeling in most of my hand, from
an injury in the military, and using my fingers I can't tell if I am causing
any ripples in the paint or how hard I am pressing,  the pads worked great.

Jon 50 3104
Chicago burbs

----- Original Message -----
From: "BelAir Bob" <rogerz@planetwide.com>
To: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>; "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Wet sanding

> Tom,
> There are two stages of the paint process when you can wet sand.  The
> is the final sanding of the primer coat before painting. The second is
> the paint has dried before polishing.
> I'm sure others have different techniques for wet sanding but this one was
> taught to me by a buddy who produces consistent show winning paint jobs.
> The pupose of wet sanding the primer is to produce a MUCH smoother paint
> finish.  The technique I use involves a five gallon bucket of warm water,
> few drops of dish soap, a large sponge, 600 grit 3M Wet or Dry sand paper
> and a can of cheap flat black spray paint.  I do not use a sanding block
> wet sanding.  The procedure starts by applying a "guide coat" of flat
> spray paint.  This coat should be nothing more than hazy black stripes a
> inches, 4" to 5", over the entire piece to be sanded.  You don't want to
> make solid black stripes, they should look a little heavier than just over
> spray would.  The purpose of the stripes is to indicate where you have
> sanded and where you may have missed a spot.  I start by soaking the
> sandpaper for about 30 minutes to soften up the paper.  This makes the
> backing more plyable.  The actual process of sanding starts with me
> each sheet of paper into thirds and folding the piece I'm going to use
> thirds.  I "load" the sponge with water, wet down the area where I'm going
> to start and then begin sanding in a circular motion.  You need to be ver
> cafeful not to sand with your fingertips.  This can cause shallow groves
> the primer coat.  Instead, keep the paper back under you fingers, say from
> the first knucke down.  This gives good even sanding pressure.  Be sure to
> take off and rings you might normally wear and even trim you finger nails.
> The finger nail thing sounds funny but I have seen "sanding scratches"
> a buddy of mine that has particularly thick finger nails and bad sanding
> technique. There are times when you will have to use you fingertips to
> but just go easy when you do.  As I sand with one hand, I keep a constant
> trickle of water running from the sponge.  You can tell when you aren't
> using enough water when the paper sticks to the surface.  Be sure to dip
> paper in your water bucket fairly often to rinse of the "sludge" that
> up on it.  I continue on in this fashion until all of the guide coat is
> gone.  I finish the wet sanding procedure with a good wash job, water with
> tiny amount of dish soap,  of the entire piece and a complete drying with
> disposable towels.  In my experience,  if I have done a propper job of
> sanding, the primer will actually have a low shine to it.
> Wet snading the finished paint before polishing is done with the same
> technique with a few exceptions.  First and foremost, do not spray a guide
> coat.  Second, at this point I actually sand the entire piece twice, once
> with 1500 grit and once with 2000.  After the water has been dried from
> sanded piece any area you missed will be glossy.  Once all the missed
> are sanded you can polish the paint.  I don't do the polishing so I can't
> comment on the procedure.
> I hope this rather long winded explination helps.
> Robert Rogers
> 57 Belair Sport Coupe restored to original
> 55 -2 3105
> 55 -2 6400
> 55 -2 3100 Wife's project
> 57 3100
> 82/86 GMC Sierra SLE Crew Cab 1/2 ton short bed (For Sale)
> and a few others
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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