> Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 21:44:06 -0400
> From: "Tom" <tomntam@earthlink.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] 55 2nd fuses gas tank wiring
>
> Does a 55 2nd have a fuse block and if so where is it?
> Also how can I wire my new sending unit up temporarily, to make sure it
> works as well as my gas gauge? What size wire, and from where to where does
> it go? What size fuse do i need and can i just put it in line someplace?
> Keep in mind that this is temporary, i will have to get a wiring harness and
> rewire the entire truck. Any suggestions on a place that has dummy proof
> harnesses?
>
> Thanks for any and all help,
> Tom Cooper
> I was suppose to be at the coast fishing this weekend, but the bearing went
> out on the boat trailer. Oh well, guess i'll work on my oletruck.
>
Tom--
The fuse block was an option, I think it was installed if the truck got
a couple accessories installed, such as radio/heater/spotlight. One of
my 59s came with radio/heater, and no fuse block, the other had
radio/heater/spotlight and had a fuseblock. Who knows?
Anyways, the fuseblock is only for accessories! and there are no fuses
for most circuits, except for the dash light fuse and breakers in the
light switch.
The original harness that Chevy Duty sells is pretty good, as long as
you're keeping the truck mostly original. If you want a dummy resistant
aftermarket fuse block and wiring harness, you might try a Ron Francis
kit, or perhaps a Painless Wiring kit, but these are not dummy proof!
just dummy resistant. They take quite a bit more work to install than
the factory replacement harness, and you have to make decisions, too.
To wire up the fuel gage, you connect the sender to the S terminal on
the gage, and connect the I terminal on the gage to the ignition circuit
(thru a fuse if you're the careful type). The gage and sending unit
must be properly grounded (the metal parts need to be connected to
battery negative, this is done thru the mounting and with a small wire
on the sender). wire size of 16 gage or larger (smaller number is
larger wire) should be fine. It's real hard to see the lables on the
back of the gage...they are stamped into the paper insulator. Look
close, you should be able to see them, but you probably need to remove
the gage panel first. If it's still wired, the pink wire is I, the tan
wire is S.
Jim F
59s in AZ
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