Jim,
The paints stores carry a syringe type of two part adhesive to attach
panels. The two part activators are applied evenly by the syringe. The
body shops attach new panels in this manner.
The belt line cab seam is a tough one to eliminate the rust from coming
back. I finally cured it on one cab by sandblasting the seam and applying
an epoxy primer. I then apply some 3M flexible seam sealer from a tube that
I purchased from my local paint store followed by another application of
epoxy primer.
If the rain gutter seam your talking about is between the gutter and top of
the cab then the same seam sealer will work. I'm not sure that I would
apply bondo over the seam because any flexing of the metal will cause the
bondo to crack.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Nordwall <jnord@fgi.net>
To: oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, June 07, 2001 8:55 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] cab corners
>I have started doing the body work on the back of my cab. As I expected,
>the cab corners are gone. Once I removed the POs attempt at a repair
>(galvanized sheet metal, pop rivets, and bondo) I knew I was in for a good
>time. I purchased cab corners from Chevy Duty and I am very pleased with
>the quality. I used a sheet metal wheel on a die grinder and cut away the
>rust. I cut away everything but a 1" lip for the patch panel. This looks
>like a large amount of MIG welding. Several months ago there was some
>discussion about using an epoxy and gluing cab corners in place. Did anyone
>do it yet and if so what do I need to know before I try it. We use PC7
>Epoxy where I work to glue fitting on 6" aluminum pipe, I have never seen
>one come apart.
>
>Second Question: What should I do with the seam at the back of the cab
where
>the top and bottom pieces of the cab meet. I can easily get rid of the
>surface rust. I don't think it requires welding. I have no desire to fill
it
>with lead. Looks like a good application for paste epoxy?
>
>Third Question: What do I do with the rain gutters around the doors? I
>don't really want to remove them, but I'm not happy with the small gaps
>between the gutter and the body. Welding this is out of the question. Will
>bondo hold as long as I get rid of ALL the rust and use a rust neutralizer
>first? What have other people done?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Nordwall
>50 3100
>Jacksonville, IL
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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