An air line can never be too big or too strong <g>
I would go with the steel pipe. Your plan sounds good, but don't
forget to set the pipe up so any water trapped in it can be drained.
Forget PVC, it gets weak if it is too hot or cold.
I don't think you really need galvenized pipe, black should do just
fine for inside work. Remember to seal the threads.
I would use a short piece of hose to the compressor for the final
link to isolate vibration and I would use a valve at the compressor
to shut the system off if something goes bad.
Secure the bibs well, they take a lot of force from the air hose
attached to them. At each bib, I would put a T with a dead downbound
leg about 6" long to catch any rust or dust that makes its way down
the pipe.
I don't know how large your compressor is, but I would include a
1" valve and plug for a future port close to the compressor if you
want to sandblast or tie in a portable compressor some day.
I would set the main pipe up to slope towards drain points. It doesn't
take much, 1/8 inch per foot is fine.
Don't forget to put in a few unions here and there in case you ever
have to take the assembly apart for some reason.
Finally, compressors are noisey and they should be fed clean air.
Think about putting the compressor in a separate shed outside the
garage.
Have fun. Renting a good Rigid pipe cutting and threading tool for
the day when you put it together will make things go quicker. Sure
beats having the hardware store cut and thread a bunch of pipe sections
or buying lots of nipp1es. (don't know about this board, but some
screen for words like that!)
If it freezes in your area, be sure to blow out any moisture in the
system in the fall.
Bruce Kettunen
57 3200
MN
At Saturday, 8 December 2001, you wrote:
>Hey all,
> I am looking to add compressed air in my shop. The question
is what kind
>of pipe. Galvanized steel, black iron, or PVC. PVC is sure cheaper
but I'm
>told perhaps unsafe. I am only looking to handle 125psi with 1"
pipe to the
>general bench area then 1/2" to the drop points with curly plastic from
>there. Any advice on what is best? Thanks..........tom 50---3600
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
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