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RE: [oletrucks] Special tool needed

To: "Peters, Jon C" <jpeters@sikorsky.com>,
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Special tool needed
From: "Hanlon, Bill" <Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 14:16:33 -0500
My V8 is a Pontiac 347.  I believe that all US 55.2-59 GMC V8s were either 
Pontiac 288/316/336/347 (smaller trucks) or Oldsmobile 324/370 (larger trucks). 
 The Canadian 55.2-59 GMC V8s were either Chevrolet 265/283 (smaller trucks) or 
Buick 322 (larger trucks).  At least that is what the US and Canadian Master 
Parts Books show.

-----Original Message-----
From: Peters, Jon C [mailto:jpeters@sikorsky.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 1:54 PM
To: Hanlon, Bill; oletrucks
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Special tool needed


I've heard of that tool, but I haven't seen them in use.
Sorry
As a side what manufacturer made your v8 Pontiac or Buick?

                -----Original Message-----
                From:   Hanlon, Bill [mailto:Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com]
                Sent:   Tuesday, April 23, 2002 2:22 PM
                To:     oletrucks
                Subject:        [oletrucks] Special tool needed

                I need to replace the oil pan gaskets on my 57 
                GMC V8 to fix a leak.  The engine has about 
                80,000 miles on it's only rebuild.  It has 
                good compression on all cylinders.  Oil pressure 
                is OK, but drops to around 15-16 PSI at an idle 
                (450 RPM) after 10 miles at 70 MPH @ 90 degree 
                air temp.  At the same idle after normal in-town 
                driving the oil pressure is around 20 PSI.
                When it was rebuilt the crank was measured and 
                found to be within spec, so it was polished 
                and re-installed with STD/STD bearings.

                Back when our trucks were fairly new there was a 
                tool that one could use to "roll out" and "roll in" 
                new main bearings without actually removing the 
                crankshaft.  The tool had a round stud on it that 
                fit into the oil hole on the crank journal and a 
                head that was thinner than the bearing shell 
                thickness.  You remove the main bearing cap, 
                stick the tool into the oil hole and turn the crank 
                in the right direction to remove the bearing shell.
                Install the new shell in the opposite direction, 
                put the other half into the main cap, retorque and
                move on to the next main.  

                If I could find one of these I would consider 
                installing a new set of standard size main 
                and rod bearings and a new oil pump while 
                I have the pan off.

                Two questions:
                        1.      Anyone know where I can find one of these 
                                gizmos?
                        2.      Any reason not to do this?  I know that 
                                the right way is to remove the crank, 
                                have it magnefluxed, checked for taper, 
                                checked for out of round, ground if 
                                necessary, etc. etc. etc.  I am looking 
                                at this as low-cost preventative maintenance

                                and am not planning to tear the engine 
                                down until it needs it.
                oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between
1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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