Cool!
Now I found a use for all those cotter pins I've got laying around...
Actually that's a great idea to put in the logbook!
Thanks Allen.
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen Jones [mailto:jonesal@u.washington.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 4:42 PM
To: oletrucks
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Special tool needed
Military method: (the technical manual actually authorizes
this) take an
appropriately sized cotter pin and bend it into a tee with
the top part of
the tee at 45 degrees to the leg, and bend curved to fit the
crank shaft.
Insert the cotter pin into the oil hole with the leg pointed
in the
direction of loading, rotate the crank shaft, and bearing is
removed. Easy
parcheesi, no special tool req'd. <insert qualifications of
not scratching
the crank, rotating the crank shaft in the right direction,
etc. etc. here>
Note this method only works on tanged inserts, not pinned
inserts.
If this doesn't make sense, I can scan the page out of the
techman and post
it on my web page.
Allen in Seattle
'50 3100
'55 M38A1
http://students.washington.edu/jonesal/other.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peters, Jon C" <jpeters@sikorsky.com>
To: "'Hanlon, Bill'" <Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com>; "oletrucks"
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 11:54 AM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Special tool needed
> I've heard of that tool, but I haven't seen them in use.
> Sorry
> As a side what manufacturer made your v8 Pontiac or Buick?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hanlon, Bill [mailto:Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 2:22 PM
> To: oletrucks
> Subject: [oletrucks] Special tool needed
>
> I need to replace the oil pan gaskets on my 57
> GMC V8 to fix a leak. The engine has about
> 80,000 miles on it's only rebuild. It has
> good compression on all cylinders. Oil pressure
> is OK, but drops to around 15-16 PSI at an idle
> (450 RPM) after 10 miles at 70 MPH @ 90 degree
> air temp. At the same idle after normal in-town
> driving the oil pressure is around 20 PSI.
> When it was rebuilt the crank was measured and
> found to be within spec, so it was polished
> and re-installed with STD/STD bearings.
>
> Back when our trucks were fairly new there was a
> tool that one could use to "roll out" and "roll in"
> new main bearings without actually removing the
> crankshaft. The tool had a round stud on it that
> fit into the oil hole on the crank journal and a
> head that was thinner than the bearing shell
> thickness. You remove the main bearing cap,
> stick the tool into the oil hole and turn the crank
> in the right direction to remove the bearing shell.
> Install the new shell in the opposite direction,
> put the other half into the main cap, retorque and
> move on to the next main.
>
> If I could find one of these I would consider
> installing a new set of standard size main
> and rod bearings and a new oil pump while
> I have the pan off.
>
> Two questions:
> 1. Anyone know where I can find one of these
> gizmos?
> 2. Any reason not to do this? I know that
> the right way is to remove the crank,
> have it magnefluxed, checked for taper,
> checked for out of round, ground if
> necessary, etc. etc. etc. I am looking
> at this as low-cost preventative maintenance
>
> and am not planning to tear the engine
> down until it needs it.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between
> 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between
1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between
1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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