Rob,
You can remove the sheet metal and core support if you like, but it's not
totally necessary. With an engine hoist and leveler attachment, you can
"finesse" the engine and trans out (or in) by tilting it and raising it is
stages. I've done this just by removing the grill and radiator, even with the
hood and "doghouse" still in place. This with a Saginaw 4-speed attached, but
shifter removed - if your four speed doesn't protrude above the floor level,
you should be OK.
As for attachment points, take a couple of old head bolts, or anything with
the same thread, and weld on some lifting hooks. You can use them on both the
old engine and then to put it back in. Then just put the correct ones in and
re-torque once the motor is all happy in its new home.
The above have worked well on several in/out jobs on my '51 GMC and I can't
think of any reason a Stovebolt would be any different.
Jack / Winter park FL
On Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:35:37 -0700 "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com> wrote:
I will be pulling the old 235 and installing the new one shortly. I plan to
remove entire front end sheet metal and radiator core support. I have a 4
speed in this, but with open driveline (no torque tube). Will I be able to
pull the entire drive train (engine/tranny) as a combo, or should I remove the
tranny first?
I assume, whatever I do to remove, just reverse to install the new engine,
right?
Finally, what is the best way to hook up to the engine to lift it
(with/without tranny attached)? I can use head bolts (one front, one rear) on
the old engine, but would prefer not to do that on the new one going in. If
possible, I'd like to have it completely put together for that process....is
this possible?
Rob
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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