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Re: [oletrucks] Rocker arms & Grinding marbles?

To: chevytruck <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Rocker arms & Grinding marbles?
From: Steven Stuckmeyer <slstu51@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 10:46:39 -0700 (PDT)
On the non-detergent to detergent oil band wagon; my first car I bought was a 
68 Chevelle in 1977 from the origanl owner. The guy said he just had it 
serviced and it ran great, no oil burning. After a couple months I got me some 
Penzoil 10w-40 like my Dad always used and after that it started smoking and 
used a quart of oil every 45 miles. I went and talked to the guy I got it from 
and he said he put staight 30-40 wt oil it since the day he bought it. I ran it 
that way for about 6-8 months untill I saved enough to rebuild it. Those were 
the days!
Steve
51 3100
St Peters, MO 

Bob KNOTTS <raknotts@qwest.net> wrote:
I think I may have mentioned it before. In 1958 I worked as an aerial
photographer for an aerial mapping company out of Portland, Oregon, until I
went back into the navy (I was home 4 days in 8 months). My pilot told me
you NEVER want to use detergent oil in an engine which has been running
non-detergent oil for any length of time. He went thru air force flight
training, and that's one thing they had pounded into the cadets. I've always
used good quality oil (Quaker State, Castrol, etc.), but in 1973 I decided
to try to stop a small oil leak in my 71 IH Travelall.(Which I bought new).
When I got the oil pan off, I found abt two inches of sludge. I used to
change my oil and filter every 5000 miles . IH, like most other
manufacturers, said 7000 miles for an oil change. Now every 3000 miles I
change both the oil and filter. Unless I'm on the freeway a lot, like to
Oregon, where I just put 3999 miles on my car in 11 days. I use Castrol
synthetic mix. Not as good as full synthetic, but with frequent oil changes,
adequate. I don't think there's ANYTHING you can do that's better for your
vehicles than to use the right high quality oil, and change it often. If you
buy a new car, or have an engine rebuilt, you might want to flush the engine
on occasion with a commercial product made just for that purpose. Usually
you must run the engine in place, without putting a load on the unit. Then
you drain the flushing product, and put in new oil. Bob K in PHX, AZ.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Rocker arms & Grinding marbles?


> Once had an 55 truck that had a lot of sludge in it,, I decided id try to
rinse some of the gunk out of it,,, some old mechanic told me to put one
quart of oil to 4 quarts of diesel and let the engine Idle for 1/2 an hour,
Drain and refill with fresh oil, well I did that and I got all kinda gunk
loose from inside that drained out.. I installed a new filter, refilled the
oil,,,, the next day I was driving to work normally and the engine spun a
bearing,,, Guess what??? the oil strainer was clogged,, the oil gauges was
reading good, and continued to read good for 5 miutes after I shut it down,
the oil passages were stuffed with thick gooey gunk,, Now when ever I feel I
need to clean up a really badly gunked up motor I remove the intake or side
covers, and the oil pan after I run a rinse in it, scrape out all the bad
junk with a wire brush and mineral spirts,,, With todays high detergent oils
motors usually dont get that bad unless they have been severly neglected ,,
but eve!
> ry once in a while I find a nasty one,,
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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