Bill,
Great pictures and good work.
One thought on the shock absorbers. Instead of using the shocks with
the bolt ends on the top mount, why not use a shock with the loop end?
That way you could use the single bolt through the frame instead of
trying to mount that big adapter from Jim Carter. The biggest problem in
your case would be the shock would be very short since the vehicle is
lowered, but it would certainly clear all the inner fender sheet metal.
Here is a question for the group. I noticed on Gary's 1940 truck that
the shackles on his springs are a least 1 inch shorter than they are on
my '49. Any reason these couldn't be used on my '49? That would only
lower the truck by about 1/2 inch, but every little bit helps. Any
reason the shackles on my '49 are as long as they are? Any reason they
couldn't be shorter to get a little drop?
Bob Chansler
Mead, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Schickling
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 7:55 PM
To: Oletrucks
Subject: [oletrucks] Drag Link
I wanted to thank everyone that gave me help on trying to get a drag
link
for my project.
Bill Hanlon's suggestion of finding a knowledgeable person at my FLAPS
was a
good one. My local NAPA has a couple of good guys and they found one of
my
choices in their system. A drag link that fits 53 and 54 Chevy 1/2 ton
trucks. I ended up not going that way because on my 1940 the drag link
hooks
to the pitman arm from the inside and on those trucks it attaches to the
pitman arm on the outside. I thought the angle was too much at the
extremes.
What I ended up doing was buying a tie rod tapered reamer from Gary
Forney(XKUT)on ebay. I needed this to cut the taper on my pitman arm to
replace the old ball. This allows me to keep my complete steering box
and
pitman arm original and to cut the taper to fit a modern tie rod end. I
would have needed this no matter what my solution was. The reamer was
$29.00. I had one shop quote me $75.00 to cut the taper in my pitman
arm.
Then I ordered a tie rod tube and one large tie rod and one small tie
rod
end from this web site I found on a jeep or bronco rock climber web
site. I
suggest you check this site out. It has some great stuff on it if you
are
making components from scratch or you are a dirt track\stock car
builder.
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
This setup cost me $51.00 with shipping. $20.00 to $30.00 cheaper than a
stock drag link from the regular sources or NAPA and about $200.00 -
$300.00
cheaper than some of the custom drag links that a few people quoted me.
If you want to see my drag link go here:
http://home.twcny.rr.com/schickling/1940Chevy/rebuild3.html
Thanks again.
Bill Schickling
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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