In a message dated 10/12/04 6:42:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
thomasind@worldnet.att.net writes:
> Thinking of pivoting the striped inside
> cab on bottom of firewall with protection / clamped stop to the frame with
> suspension from overhead reversing for the back of the cab ( never
> completely removing cab from the frame ). For assurance I plan on removing
> the doors &tacking cross bracing in the door openings
Personally, I think you would be creating more work for yourself than
needed. I have had my cab on and off at least a dozen times, using most all of
the
methods mentioned by the list. Most of the time, it was the beer and buddies
method.
These cabs are pretty strong, and don't have a lot of flex to them. I have
had it jacked up in all different ways and not "sprung" it yet. To do any floor
work, to the under side, I would just put it on the floor of your shop, and
with some help, carefully tilt it back on the back of the cab. You will have to
block it up, so you don't crush the body panels in the back, and so it won't
fall on you.
I would think that working upside down, and around the frame, would be a big
hassle. Again, just my opinion....
Pat Hollister
'58 step
West Burlington, IA.
http://community.webtv.net/TnJpot/TRUCKFORSALE
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|