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Re: tractors

To: Nolan Penney <npenney@mde.state.md.us>
Subject: Re: tractors
From: Jan Goethals <janealpg@airmail.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:06:42 -0500
Wow, this list is great..... I don't need a book on tractors, just this
list. Thank you for the information it was very helpful.
Jan

Nolan Penney wrote:

> The perfect car for you is....
> That's why there is no single perfect tractor.  Some folks love a two
> stage foot clutch, some love having a hand operated pto clutch.  Neither
> is wrong.
>
> I don't know what you're thinking about price wise, or what your bent
> is with regards to equipment.
>
> You could successfully work your place with an ancient 8N tractor.  I
> know lots of folks who do.  Wouldn't recommend it though.  Lack of live
> hydraulics and live pto make old tractors quite obnoxious.  You also
> can't lock the differential and the old machines don't have 4wd or power
> steering.  That stinks also.
>
> Power is often overrated, and people tend to buy far more then they
> need.
>
> A 5' brush/bush hog can be very well driven with a sub-30 hp tractor.
> Sure, you can use a bigger tractor to power it, but you're basically
> wasting fuel.  A 100 hp tractor can also spin an 18' batwing mower.
> That big batwing is nifty, but costs a fortune and you can't maneuver it
> worth a darn.
>
> You mention wanting to move round bales around during the winter.  In
> that case, I'd recommend you at least consider 4wd, a front end loader,
> and power steering.  Yes, you can move a round bale with a 3 point
> hitch, but it stinks when compared to a front end loader with a spike.
> If you've ever operated a front end loader tractor without power
> steering, you'll never want to do that again.
>
> Consider carefully the availability of parts and service in your area.
> A Long tractor may well be cheap, but if the nearest parts dealer that
> carries that manufacturer is 300 miles away, that's not so neat.  That's
> the biggest single problem with many of the Chinese tractors, they are
> good machines, but parts are a disaster.
>
> Be aware that companies like Kubota make a truly dandy machine, but
> they handle parts inventory like an automobile manufacturer.  After
> about 8 years, good luck at getting them.  Companies like Deere, Case,
> Ford and such carry parts from well over half a century ago.
>
> Tricycle:  These are the three wheelers, also called row croppers.
> They are unstable and prone to tipping.
>
> Utility:  4 wheels like a car, low slung.  Your general purpose
> tractor.  Far more stable, can have occasional clearance problems,
> especially working crops like corn.
>
> PTO:  Power take off.  You want this to be live.  As in powered
> directly by the engine.  Older tractors had them driven via the
> transmission, meaning you press in the clutch and the pto stops.
> Anything built in the last 20 years will have a live PTO.
>
> 3 point hitch:  You want this.  It's the #1 impalement attachment
> method.  Really old tractors have different designs, making equipment
> mounting very difficult.  They come in various sizes.  Category I is the
> basic.  Category II is for big equipment (60 hp and up as I recall),
> category III is huge.  About 95% of the equipment sold is category I.
> There is a category 0 which is for lawn tractor toys with a tiny 3 point
> hitch.
>
> ROPS:  Roll over protection system.  Not worth a darn if you refuse to
> wear the seat belt.  #1 safety impalement on tractors for years now.
> But, they screw you up for snaking under things.  Orchard tractors often
> have them removed so they can get under the trees.
>
> Tires:  Turf vs field.  Field tires are the classic tractor tire you
> see with the paddle wheel tread.  Turf tires are what is on a riding
> mower.  Turf tires are great for lawn mowing and such.  You don't
> compact the soil much and don't leave ruts.  Turf tires don't have the
> traction of a field tire.  A field tire will leave ruts in the lawn
> though, and tears the sod apart when they slip.  If you plow, you need
> field tires, if you just mow, turf tires would be better.
>
> Diesel vs gas:  Diesel is harder to start on a cold winter morning.
> Diesel also has interesting quirks and problems with algae growing in
> the fuel and such.  However, diesel is the hands down winner when it
> comes to making grunting noises.  A gasoline engine is zippier, but will
> never keep up with a diesel when it comes to plowing and such.

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