The edges of the rotors are not badly corroded.
When I do run out on a rotor, I do both sides of the rotor so I kind of have
thickness covered, cause I'm going to see some sever run out. I will check
the thickness of any odd looking sections of rotor though.
I don't turn rotors, I replace them when there is an issue. No issues, I
just roughen up the surface with coarse sandpaper, clean/lube the pins and
change the pads. The thought of going to a lessened rotor mass, when
usually a warped rotor is due to heat, seems foolish to me, especially when
it's $15 to cut and $30-45 to replace a rotor.
The rotors in my 1988 Saab 9000 went over 250k miles when the car was
finally totaled out in a nasty accident. They had grooves, so I took time
to bed the pads into the shape of the rotor over the first 500 miles, but
they were always smooth as silk and solid.
Thanks Gents!!! Maybe this weekend. . . . .
Jack
_______________________________________________
Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
|