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Re: Home made Churchill flange removal tool :-)

To: Barry Schwartz <bschwart@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Home made Churchill flange removal tool :-)
From: JDean <jdean@designdimension.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 17:54:02 -0400
I also made my own Churchill tool ( I call it my Roosevelt tool) for pulling the
inner bearing off the rear hub of my GT6. Mine involved more welding and less
machine work, and it's ugly, but it works. I don't think I can describe it well
enough for anyone to understand, but here goes.  I use a hole saw to cut a hole
the same size as the seal seat (1.875") in a 1/4" steel plate about 4" square.
Then I cut that in half through the center of the hole. I welded two pieces of
3" X 1.5" steel U channel (1/4" wall) and 4" long perpendicular to the two
halves and with the open side on the edge which has the half circle. You should
now be able to clamp these two halves together and end up with a square 3" tube
centered on a 1.875 hole in the plate. You could use this as is in a press. Or
you can do what I did and weld two studs vertically to the outside of the
channel. These can be used with a gear puller to free the bearing from the hub

Barry Schwartz wrote:

> >Barry,  did you say you "made" and puller adaptor?  Could you enlighten us
> >on what this takes?  I am sure that at some point I will have to do this as
> >well.  Thanks
> *******************************************
> Sure, it's deceptively simple, but as I basically have a machine shop in my
> garage, it wasn't too hard.  Actually, any good machine shop could make one
> up, but then again it costs
>
> What I made was a thick, rectangular in cross-section, doughnut.  It is
> made out of aluminum with the outer diameter roughly five to six inches,
> the hole in the center just big enough to clear the brake drum mounting
> boss, and 1 inch thick.  (I don't have the part in question here at work,
> just relying on memory for size)  Four holes are drilled to match the bolt
> pattern on the flange (4 x 3-3/4 inch).  these holes are large enough in
> diameter so that I can use shoulder type lug nuts (commonly used for mag
> wheels) to secure this piece to the flange.  This adaptor is what the
> puller fingers attach to.  (I now just use a hydraulic press, but used to
> use a large three fingered puller).  This will prevent bending of the
> flange, because the thick aluminum resists bending, and distributes the
> load much more evenly over the four mounting studs. I haven't had a
> problem, or an axle set that I couldn't separate yet (although I'm sure
> there's one out there somewhere).
>
> Barry Schwartz (San Diego) bschwart@pacbell.net




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