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Re: Electrical problem

To: "Jeff McNeal" <jmcneal@ohms.com>, <SpitfireKP@aol.com>,
Subject: Re: Electrical problem
From: "David A. Templeton" <davidt@opentext.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 10:36:21 -0400
The PO of mine replaced both main battery wires with 1 gauge.  I have done
this on other vehicles in the past, it does make a difference.  The ground
was also bolted directly to the bellhousing plate so I know there is a very
good connection.

I had a '81 Dodge pickup and for some reason I wasn't getting much
electrical power, it was suggested I check the battery wires, they looked
good on the outside.  Replaced them anyways and it was much better.  Cracked
the casing open and it turned out the copper inside had almost completely
oxidized into a blue-green powder.

just my 2cents cdn ( oops that means worthless in the U.S :-0 )

        David A. Templeton
        Open Text Corp.
        Waterloo, ON
        Canada
        WebSite: http://trandmustang.homestead.com

        '74 Triumph SpitSix
        '66 Ford Mustang (Wife's)
        '59 Triumph TR3a (Project)
        '99 GMC Safari
        '95 GMC K2500 Sierra

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff McNeal" <jmcneal@ohms.com>
To: <SpitfireKP@aol.com>; <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: Electrical problem


>
> Kris,
>
> I'd replace the large wire that clamps to your positive battery terminal
and
> goes to your solenoid.  Make certain that the contact area is clean and
> secure.  I've had problems where I've lost total power like this and after
> giving the positive battery terminal a good thunk or two, power would be
> restored.  It amazes me that even though the battery clamp LOOKS like it's
> making good contact, occasionally it doesn't.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Jeff in San Diego
>
> '67 RHD Spitfire Mk3 aka "Mrs. Jones"
> Jeff's Classic '67 Spitfire Mk3 site & Vintage Spitfire Webring
> http://www.ohms.com/spitfire/spitfire.shtml
> home of the NEW Totally Triumph Auction
> "By Triumph enthusiasts, for Triumph enthusiasts"
> http://www.ohms.com/cgi-bin/TRauction.cgi
> and... The Triumph Autos/Parts Wanted Listings
> http://www.ohms.com/cgi-bin/TRwanted.cgi
> ...plus a few other surprises!
>
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <SpitfireKP@aol.com>
> To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 6:41 AM
> Subject: Electrical problem
>
>
> >
> > Though I am guessing that this is a pecularity to my car, I am wondering
> if anyone else has experienced a similar problem and can lend some advice.
> For no apparent reason, I developed a loose wire somewhere in the car. As
a
> result, whenever the car accelerated sharply in any direction (pulling out
> into traffic, tuning quickly, etc.) the engine would lose spark and the
> engine would sputter or stop. 5 or 10 seconds later, it would come back.
In
> the meantime, turning the key did nothing. I have had similar symptoms
> before, and it turned out that the clamps had fallen off the distributor
cap
> and it was bouncing around on top of thr distributor. However, everything
> looks fine with the distributor this time. Since I can only recreate the
> circumstances that cause the problem when I am driving, I have been
blindly
> tightening wires and pushing on things under the dash while in my
driveway.
> I have gotten whatever was loose tight enough that it only loses spark
very
> rarely, but the radio!
> > !
> >  turns itself on and off sporadically. Large shocks like driving over
> railroad tracks won't phase it, but when I downshift or hit a very small
> bump, it will turn off or on. It also gets worse when the car is hot. It
is
> pretty darn annoying, to say the least, and I am pulling my hair out
because
> I have no idea where to look to solve this. Any advice as to where I
should
> look for this loose wire?
> >
> > ~Kris Powell
> > 1974 Spit 1500
> >


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