>From my article that appear in the Spring issue of SPitfire magazine
regarding tub/sheet metal prep
THE TUB/SHEET METAL
The next problem that needed to be addressed was the tub that we had already
taken the time to install new suspension pockets and modify the floor pans
since it had become badly rusted as a result of the water leaking through
the tarp. It was still a workable tub, but I managed to locate another
Spitfire that had been stored inside a factory in Albany, New York for about
ten years. The car was originally from Alabama. I had found my new donor
tub. I recovered most of the cost of the donor car by selling the Spitfire’s
1.5L engine and transmission. The tub was basically rust free but had some
hidden bondo in it that was not noticed until we stripped it (see picture
7). This project was a complete frame off restoration. Every component, and
I mean every thing, was stripped from the tub and frame to be replaced or
rebuilt and then painted. Once everything was stripped from the frame I had
it sandblasted (see picture 8). The frame was then primed it with PPG DP-42
etching epoxy primer and then painted with black PPG DCC urethane
single-stage paint.
As for the tub, we debated on whether to have it acid dipped or lightly
sandblasted. The tub was basically rust free and the closest acid dipping
facility was 10 hours away so we decided to have it sand blasted. I took
the tub and doors to be sand blasted by the same person who had done the
frame. He had done a decent job on the frame and he assured me he could do
the sheet metal without a problem. He mentioned that he had done a number of
sheet metal pieces and only once warped one. Tom and I told him to be
extremely careful since we had put countless hours into locating the tub and
straightening and modifying the sheet metal. We did not want any warpage.
He assured us it would not be a problem and that it would be finished the
next day. I was the first to arrive to inspect the job. I almost cried!
Most people would not have noticed the panels were warped. However, I had
done enough bodywork to notice it immediately. It was difficult to see
because of the peaned surface of the sandblasted metal. Next, I ran my hand
across the panels and I could not believe what I felt.
I did not say much until Tom showed up. He did not think that it was warped
badly until we got the sheet metal home. Before I left, I told the
sandblaster I would have to think about how I wanted to solve the problem.
He did not know I was an attorney. When we got home we realized he had
warped every panel on the car, including the floor pans and the metal dash.
Later, I called the sandblaster about the warpage problem and he admitted
that he used too much air pressure. I later sued him for $2,800, the judge
awarded me $1,600. It took us another week to re-straighten the sheet metal
and another 300 hours on the bodywork (see picture 9). Earlier in the
project, Tom and I had made a rotisserie from two engine stands that made
working on the tub easier. Once the bodywork was finished, it was off to my
friend’s body shop (Franklin Restorations) to be painted (see photo 10). We
used a total of 4 gallons of PPG epoxy DCC single stage ‘73 Corvette Yellow
on the inside and outside of the car.
Dayton J. Carpenter, Esq.
President of International Business and Legal Affairs
Foundsoft Science & Technology Group
12 F Office Plaza World Trade Centre Zhejiang
15 Shuguang Road
Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province 310007
China
Tele: 86-571-795-0135 ext 8011
Direct line: 86-571-795-0226
Fax: 86 571-795-0137
Mobile: 86-13606647888
>From: Patrick Baize <speedracre@netzero.net>
>Reply-To: Patrick Baize <speedracre@netzero.net>
>To: Jason Tilley <jtilley@austin.rr.com>, "Spitfires@autox.team.net"
><Spitfires@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Body work Preparation.
>Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 11:51:19 -0500
>
>Sand Blast Only by a sandblaster that knows what he is doing!!!!
>
>I just had the trunk and hood of my 71 Stag Sandblasted. He warped both
>panels, now I
>have to fight with them to make good on it. I checked the price of a used
>trunk lid.
>It is 350.00 . Although I haven't haggled yet.
>
>The rest of the car I will do by Grinder, DA sander and rust removing gel.
>
>THnx
>Pat
>
>
>
>
>
>Jason Tilley wrote:
>
> > With all the talk about welding body panels, I'm just trying to get a
>census
> > on what other peoples procedures have been in the past in restoring
>cars.
> >
> > I'm wondering if it is better to
> > a) get the body sandblasted
> > or
> > b) get the body chemically dipped
> >
> > Also should the areas to be replaced (rusted floors) first, or
>should it be
> > done after the sandblast / chemical dip? and one last question -is it
>worth
> > while having the frame and certain other parts Powder coated?
> >
> > While I realize that there is NO golden Rule, I'm just trying to
>get some
> > input to make my restoration easier. I just pulled the body off my 76
>1500,
> > (very light I must add)and wanted to make life as easy as possible.
> >
> > Thanks for everyone's input,
> >
> > Jason Tilley.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Why pay for something you could get for free?
>NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
_________________________________________________________________________
Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
http://profiles.msn.com.
|