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Re: GT6 Body work

To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: GT6 Body work
From: "Michael D. Nugent, Ph.D." <nugentmd@gte.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:50:42 -0700
There are two basic ways to look at this situation:
1. I'm smart enough to realize that it will be cheaper in the long run to
consider this a parts car and begin looking for a sound GT6 to restore, so I'll
first strip all the good stuff off this one to learn about how they're put
together.  In the process, I'll become a much better car buyer.
2. I don't mind losing several thousand dollars on reconstructing this car
because the educational experience is worth at least that much to me.  In
addition, I want to prove to the nay-sayers that this car can be saved; there
are no bad cars, just worthless PO's.  Dulcinea, . . . .

Been there, done that, wouldn't do it again.

Mike
Renton, WA



BillG wrote:

> Greetings, fellow listers;
>
> Here is yet another opportunity for your coveted teacher brownie points.
> Although several months away, I'm starting to consider the restoration of
> the '71 GT6.  After looking more closely at the body, I've concluded that
> the floors, rockers, rear fenders, and possible the front footwell panels
> (firewall) should be replaced.  I've had estimates of $1200-$1500 plus parts
> to replace the floors, fenders, & rockers.  Footwells extra.  This is more
> than I can swing.  I'm not a body man.  I'm fairly handy, and a good friend
> is a former certified welder (pressure vessels, tankers, etc.)  We have
> access to a 145 amp MIG unit, and possibly a spot welder.  So the Great
> Question is: can we do this?  Time is not an issue as this is a long term
> project.  What order do we attack this in? I'm thinking footwells, floors,
> rockers, and fenders.  Make sense?  I know that rockers are an important
> structural component, particularly on a Spit.  Are they as critical on a
> GT6?  With the body still bolted to the frame, can we safely remove the
> fender, floor and rocker from one side without distorting the tub?  I'm
> assuming braces across the door opening are needed.  What about rust
> proofing the insides?  POR15 first, then touch up the welded areas after?
> There are a ton of thoughts and questions floating around in my head, but I
> think you folks get the idea.  Am I just a bit crazy to try this, or am I
> certifiable?  All Thought, questions, and comments are welcome.  I would
> prefer that any hysterical laughter be suppressed.
>
> TIA !!!! etc.
>
> BillG
>
> Ps They're coming to take me away, Ha Ha.............

--
Mike
Renton, WA
>>-------------->   914 Lite 2.5 is FOR SALE:
http://home1.gte.net/NugentMD/914lite.htm



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