Bob, Replacing the hub may not fix your problem. Check the knurling on the
stud. It may be worn. Also try removing the stud, and since it is a
interference fit, deform the hole are slightly with a punch or ball peen (I
said slightly) and see if this helps.
Jay Bourgraf
"I may not have a solution, but I admire the problem"
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spruck <bspruck@mindspring.com>
To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>;
vintage-race@autox.team.net <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 12:08 AM
Subject: Fixing Loose Wheel Studs
>Hi folks:
>
>While replacing the brake rotors on my '67 MG Midget vintage race car, I
>discovered that one of the wheel studs was loose. It didn't spin, but
>rather like a loose tooth, it just wobbled. These are 7/16 " studs I
>installed to replace the puny 3/8" ones when I built the car . The proper
>fix, of course, would be to get another hub, drill out the stud holes,
>install new studs, swap the bearings, install the new rotors, and start
>anew. My problem is time. Now that my daughter is getting married in June,
>my wife and I have a lot of inside domestic projects for the winter and
>then a lot of outside projects for the spring. My agenda, of course, is to
>get the race car ready for the season and finishing up the hydraulic
>rebuild, engine compartment painting, and engine rebuild on my '72 street
>Midget.
>
>What do you think of putting a spot or two of weld on the head of the stud
>and the hub. I know this will make it permanent but that's OK. A future fix
>when I have more time would be to replace the entire assembly. Has anyone
>done this. Does anyone see any danger in doing this. I would mount the hub
>to the wheel with all four studs and wheel nuts so that they would be in
>the proper orientation and wouldn't be welded crooked.
>
>Your opinions, experiences, recommendations, or suggestions would be
>greatly appreciated.
>
>Bob Spruck
>Sharpsburg, GA
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