I got the brakes bled (my son and my wife took turns on the pedal) and was
stymied as to why I couldn't get my pedal back. (Wasn't getting bubbles.)
Someone's signature says something to the effect of: 'just because you found
one problem ... '. I looked in Hayne's manual and one of the associated
fixes was to adjust the rear brakes. One of my adjusters was behind those
two 'things' that it should be spreading to push the shoes. I have a higher
pedal now. I'm thinking that I also have to adjust the push rod (?) a bit.
I'll look into that later. I have brakes and I went cruisin' locally. I
found a guy at the far end of my neighbourhood with a '58 Jag and some
vintage Sprint racers (yes, I do mean 'sprint', not sprite) (and a '58
boat). I'm also told that there are a couple of other LBCs in the
neighbourhood (there are about 5 B's) including a TC that someone has 99%
restored and has lost the energy to go on. hmmn!
Oh yes, ... my tach seems to have started to register closer to correct.
All by itself. It must have known that I was going to send it away.
Thanks to all for the assistance. I'll try the mity-vac again some other
time, maybe.
Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette
RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca
'65 RHD BRG Sprite
-----Original Message-----
From: Thecarguru@aol.com <Thecarguru@aol.com>
To: RobertDuquette@sympatico.ca <RobertDuquette@sympatico.ca>
Date: May 30, 1999 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: bleedin' brake failure part II
>A couple points to ponder.
>Is the cap on or off the master cylinder when you attempt the mityvac? If
the
>cap has a restrictive vent you will be fighting that. Remove the cap and
see
>if the fluid flows. Actually it may flow right out the bleeders when they
are
>opened even a quarter to half turn. Second, make certain the master
cylinder
>piston is allowed to fully return. I didnt catch what year or setup you are
>using, but if you have the dual line cylinder with the brake light switch
at
>the front of the pedal box, you might try loosening the switch a turn or
two
>(which limits pedal travel outwards) because the cup in the master can
>partially cover the port in the reservoir side of the cylinder casting so
>that fluid wont travel without the pedal being pushed. Can you push one of
>the caliper pistons back in (if disc braked) or squeeze wheel cylinder
>pistons together and get fluid to travel back up into the master cylinder?
A
>swollen cup in the master cylinder can also cause this restriction.
Generally
>only one side on a dual line master will be affected though I suppose both
>could go bad at the same time.
>
>I have never used an assistant to bleed the brakes on my Midget. I use a
>broom handle, take the wheels off, open the right rear bleeder, push the
>pedal down, close bleeder, let it up. Go to the left rear, repeat.
>Then doing the front brakes, I usually start by loosening the bleeder till
>fluid travels out, then close the bleeder, put a long screwdriver or board
on
>the pedal to press it down and place the item against the front of the seat
>or steering column bracket, whatever will hold the pedal down, go back up
>front open and close the bleeder. I repeat this a couple times per wheel,
>until I get the highest pedal possible. I never had great luck using the
>mityvac unless both the bleeder screw was a snug fit in the threads and the
>plastic adapter piece snapped tightly over the nipple on the bleeder. But I
>always got some fluid out at least. ?I cant think of anything else that
>would cause your symptoms!! Good luck and let us all know what happens!
>Gary
>75 Midget daily driver
>75 Midget project car
>
|