no matter wich way you strip a rim unless you go through some carefull
preperation rust will creep out where centers meet rims!
i prefer using my local redi strip shop to chemically strip stuf flike this.
their process removes paint and all rust and uses a phosphate wash to finish
an item of as a final wash. this method leaves a nice unmolested clean
steel exactly as stamped and can be painted on with out etching/using metal
prep. the omly thing is that all of the spots where rust was present will
appear as a porous aerea wich primer might filll or a light bit of spot
puytt or glaze might be needed to give that factory smooth finish.
sand blasting presents a problem as it marrs the finish to a uniform
roughness that if you want a smooth factory type of finish you will be
priming and sanding-priming and sanding untill you achieve a smooth enough
surface to reflect the surface you are trying to bring back. this method
tends to work well with completly smooth surfaces. it could obliterate the
raised edges of the rostyle stampings at the spokes?
to address the rust in the aerea between center and rim sand blasting or
glass beading will not stop any rust happening between 2 surfaces in close
contact like this. rust will return . chemical stripping will attack and
address this rust.
after any form of striping be it glass beading , sand blasting , or chemical
process, the aerea where 2 surfaces meet needs to be brush washed with a
serious type of protective material such as zinc chromate . a thin wash of
zinc chromate thinned with a little laquer thinner will allow it to creep
into the 2 overlaping pieces . then just spray the wheel with black/dk.grey
primer and scuff it with a scotch brite pad (like wood remember to use
strokes in one way, around rim itself and from center out ). then finish
with apropriate colors(try eastwood company). wa-la better than new
looking rims!
chuck
now the second largest sprite driver by 2&1/2 inches....
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