>From what I understand you need more than just power at the coil for the
coil to discharge into the plugs to spark. The timing, controlled by the
points, is critical. When the points close, the field in the coil builds
slowly. When the points separate the field collapses and the coil fires down
that plug wire. I think the heeps still had points in 75. Check and see if
the points aren't stuck together or the points gap isn't zero or very small.
The points must remain closed enough time for the field to build at the coil
and then quickly open to collapse the coil's field to fire the plug.
Another way to "test" points is to measure the 12 volts you are getting on
the + side of the coil while turning the engine over (slowly). A dwell meter
helps, but you can usually see the +12V drop momentarly as the points
seperate if you just jack up the rear, block one tire and turn the engine
over slowly. Or turn the distributor, but then you lose your timing which is
Also are you checking spark at the coil or on a plug line? If spark at the
coil but no spark at the plug check the distributor cap, rotor, plug lines.
71 Toyota Land Cruiser, NO JEEP bumper sticker.
69 Sprite. Finally got the project going again!!!
From owner-spridgets at autox.team.net
[mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]On Behalf Of Dave Miles
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2001 8:28 PM
Subject: Non-LBC: Jeep ignition question
All right all you automotive gurus, I have an electrical question for
you. My 75 CJ5 won't start. Symptom: power at the coil positive
terminal, no spark from the coil. Replaced the coil, no change. Bad
coil? Got another new one, still no spark from the coil. Any ideas?