You're a better man than I Gungha Din. My only experiences in welding sheet
alum. was more like smelting! I know it can be done, but whatever you do
PRACTICE on a non critical part.
Geoff Branch
'74 Meejit "Yellow Peril"
'72 Innocenti 1300 Mini
----- Original Message -----
From <IfixMGs at aol.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: aluminum soldering/welding.
> Larry,
> The best stuff I've found on the market is "Alumaloy" but it's fairly
> expensive. Northern and Harbor Fr8 both carry a pretty good rod/flux/brush
> kit. The trick is to get the work as clean as it can get, use a Mapp torch (a
> regular propane torch head works but not as good as the one designed for Mapp
> bottle) and keep the work a few degrees above the melting point of the
> alloy which is about 730. You will mostly find that the connection falls in
> the realm of true soldering (below 780f as I recall from my now 30 year old
> metalurgy classes...) but some actual weldments will form at the periphery
> of the puddle surface and the material. The welds are grainy and porus, and
> don't add much strength, so I simply fill them in with more puddled rod.
> I've repaired my ladder, a couple of Weber intakes and fabricated a door
> striker latch for a 58 MGA out of the stuff. I also had good luck using
> 1/8" 4043 aluminum rod with the Alumaloy flux and an oxyacetylene torch to
> repair a tear in the door.
>
> Mark
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