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RE: rear seal

To: "Mueller, Robert CDR" <RMueller@grumobile.uscg.mil>, "'PilotRob@webtv.net'" <PilotRob@webtv.net>, pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com
Subject: RE: rear seal
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 08:29:54 -0800
Cc: TALLA@TELUSPLANET.NET, spridgets@autox.team.net
You could try without, but seems everyoone I've ever heard with the problem
need to add manifold vacuum to really make it work right. That's the way it
was originally desined also. Early cars had a vent pipe that extended just
below the sump such that moving air across the end would create a vacumm
and also a connection to the air cleaners, and later cars incorporated a
PCV valve at the manifold.

The other real important factor is the way the rear main and half moon seal
are assembled. I should add that many engines I've disassembled leak from
the back plate or the sump seals as well. The sump seals can leak at the
corners where the cork seal join the side seal at the main cap. If the
corks a re cut too sort or left too long, they will leak! back plates can
leak from the oil pump not being sealed in well or a crack in the cast back
plate (on 1098's and 1275's) will compromise the situation too, so there
are several potential problems that require attention when reassembling an
A-series. Out of four engines I have recently disassembled, 2 were cracked
or broken in two, and the third had the wromg plate on it. Another that a
friend pulled apart was cracked also.

The rear seals are the same on all the A-series, so the Minimania seal
should work on all of them.


At 9:19 AM -0600 3/19/02, Mueller, Robert CDR wrote:
>Do you need vacuum assist for crankcase ventilation, or are good breathers
>Coastie Bob
>'74 Midget
>>However, I must point out I mentioned
>>"adequate crankcase ventilation" once in
>>my prior post; you mentioned this twice with the added caveat of "vacuum

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