Bill-
Usually when the engine tends to quit
when making a turn, fuel level is the
culprit (as in a little too low to some extent).
This case could be made for stumble on acceleration as well, especially
in this case where both symptoms appear in
the same vehicle.
Setting of fuel level affects the strength of
the mixture throughout the entire operating range of the engine. Thus,
it's importance in terms of accuracy
(to begin with) becomes obvious to
all concerned.
In the case of the SU:
When the fuel level is correct, the needle
profile selected by the manufacturer will
automatically provide for correct mixture
strength in the unmodified stock engine
throughout the rpm range when the "basic" setting (made at idle) is
accurately
set.
In any event, when the fuel level is too
low the mixture strength will tend to be
weak throughout the range. When it is
too high, it is the "other way", often
accompanied by black exhaust smoke
and a general odor of unburnt gasoline.
When it comes to "plug cuts", the rpm
under "the condition" and specific rpm
range in question normally does not
exceed 30 seconds, though there may
be differing opinions on this....it is not
an exact science to begin with and
"reading" plugs is more of an art in
any event.
Very generally speaking:
you are looking for
darkish brown "centers" with the "rims"
tinged with a black carbon deposit under
the specific "load" and specific rpm
under which the load occurs. This with
a healthy engine not prone to an unusual
amount of oil in the combustion process,
and assuming a healthy spark.
But get the fuel level correctly set in
the "stock" application and this will normally take care of itself with
the
"stock" carb. and "stock" spark plug
recommended by the manufacturer
for "normal" street driving.
Where should the fuel level be set?
You have your Haynes manual? Of
course you do, Bill, for no true LBC
afficienado would leave home with
it!! He certainly would not admit to it,
anyway!! :)
Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd)
'60 Frog
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