Ditto everything below, especially making sure the pipe flange is not
warped, kinked, bent, distorted etc. If you remove the manifold or have a
spare, you can gently hammer the flange against the lip of the manifold for
a perfect fit. Because I have also expericed that clamp distorting the
flange some on tightening, If you decide to go the minimum expense route, I
have also had great success using Permatex Untra Copper sealant as
insurance. Works great if done properly.
Gerard
At 10:19 AM -0500 11/6/02, type79@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>Just to chime in with my .02 cents,
>I agree 100% with Peter's suggestions.
>You will only have success with the original setup on your car if the pipe
>flange
>is clean and uniform without any bent edges or dents in addition to PC's
>advice.
>I've had better luck with the later setup from the 1275 cars, but to avoid
>all of
>the foolishness, get a header as that completely eliminates the joint and
>replaces it with a conventional setup that uses a pipe clamp at the front
>of the
>system.
>
>jay f
>HAN6
>GAN5
>Innocenti 950
>http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/
>
>"Peter C." wrote:
>
>> Several solutions.
>> 1. Get the Moss clamp which is correct. Clean off the furnace cement, if
>> you can. You MUST have the clamp and bracket that support the exhaust pipe
>> to transmission, else the rest is futile. I had perfect results only after
>> having that bracket firmly in place, and placing a jack under the pipe
>> whilst installing the manifold clamp from above.
>> 2. You can install a later 69 on 1275 exhaust manifold which uses a 3 bolt
>> flange with gasket. You must also get the matching pipe. Completely
>> interchanges with the 1098 stuff.
>> 3. Go with a header.
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