Thanks to everyone for the rapid responses. Lots to consider. The brakes are
not currently binding. The original problem was a too long pushrod in an
upgraded master. That's corrected and there is ample fee movement. Now I
can't get a good pedal after bleeding. I'll make another thorough look at
everything including the master ( not assuming that it was overhauled
I'll report back.
On Sep 12, 2011, at 1:47 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
> Did you see the recent post with the link to MG/AH brake master rebuild
specs? From memory, on the sight they indicate that correct masters for early
sprites are hard to get. The issue is the bore size.
> That could be part of your problem. I assume you are using the original
single unit with a single brake master and clutch master combined.
> If the car is not original this could be a good excuse to upgrade to discs
> Good Luck and welcome to the board.
> Sent from me.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steven Kemple <email@example.com>
> Sender: firstname.lastname@example.orgDate: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 12:20:52
> To: <email@example.com>
> Subject: [Spridgets] brake problems
> Hi all
> I'm a new lister, but not new to LBC's. I acquired a 61 Bugeye recently
> have been working on brake problems ever since. Seemed O.K. when I did the
> test drive but the brakes seemed weak and the pedal very hard. I chalked
> up to not being used to 4 wheel drum brakes.
> On the first drive after delivery the rear brakes locked up. Changed the
> cylinders. Then the front brakes locked up. After extensive review of the
> archives and discussions with the PO it appears that the car had a newly
> rebuilt Master Cylinder and ended up with the wrong push rod resulting in
> free movement. That has been corrected. Even after a fairly short drive
> the locked up front brakes, the shoes and cylinders looked pretty much
> so I changed them ( shoes and Lockeed type cylinders from Moss). I have
> problems that I have been struggling with for days. First, the right front
> wheel drum is very tight with the adjusters completely unadjusted. I can
> no difference in parts. I even tried changing the shoes and drums from the
> left side with no difference. The other problem is that I can not get a
> pedal. I can not detect any leaks and no bubbles when bleeding. I am
> the wife assist bleed method. I can pump up the pedal a bit but it is not
> close to right. I let it sit for a couple of days and still no change.
> front flexible lines are new and the rear one looks new. Isolation of the
> flexible lines has not pointed to a specific problem. The only other thing
> add is that at one front wheel I found a small amount of fluid inside the
> back plate but could not detect from where. I thought it may have been a
> away drip from the bleeding process. Could it be a hair line crack in a
> wheel cylinder? I have read just about every brake posting on the archives
> looking for an answer. Any thoughts?
> Steve Kemple
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