>>I'm not too sure if I did something stupid. I bought a '71 TR6 that
>>runs but needs some definite interior and exterior work. The cost was
>>$1500.
>> The rediculous thing is that I have no experience in restoration
>>and don't know where to start. Is it best to do easy things like dashboard,
>>and convertible or tackle things that are the foundation of the car like
>>the chassis? I'd like this to be a family project with my son and wife.
>>Also I'd like to limit the additional costs to $2000. Am I dreaming?
>$1500 for a running TR-6 project car sounds like a pretty good deal here in
>Toledo.
A pretty good deal (not super-fantastic, but good) just about anywhere.
I paid ~$2K for mine in '88, and it needed a total front-suspension rebuild,
carb rebuild, new springs & shocks all around, and many other small things.
>Keep it (or make it) roadworthy for a while, and get to know the car. Once
>you tear it down to the bones, you'll need that remembered love of driving it
>to inspire you to put the danged thing back together again! Start the
>restoration by getting *intimately* familiar with the maintenance procedures
>that you'll be needing the rest of your life. :) Buy at least one workshop
>manual to work with. Buy at least one "restoring old cars" book, preferably
>one that deals with your model.
Good advice. Avoid the syndrome: "it's spring, I'll drive the TR.
But oh, I should fix this, so I'll take XYZ apart and fix it first", followed
by not getting it together again until fall, missing the entire driving season.
Do/start major work in the fall when it starts getting a bit nippy to drive,
but before the garage turns into a deep freeze. During the season, keep it on
the road, but avoid major teardowns unless forced. (I learned this the hard
way.)
With $2000, take some care, and I'd suggest mainly sticking to
mechanical issues for a while, until you're familiar with the car and it's
hit you with it's major mechanical suprises. It may well be wanting a
full front-end rebuild; the TR bushings wear out quite nicely (I have some
on my mantle as trophies). Plan on carb rebuilds, various new rubber bits and
pieces (I ended up replacing just about every rubber piece), pick up 6 u-
joints - if they aren't needed now, they will be eventually on a '6. You
may not need all of these, but on a cheap old runner you'll probably end up
doing most of them. I'd get a pair of carb rebuild kits on general principle
too - I found the carb diaphragms were split, tuneup parts, etc.
The only major bodywork I'd consider early-on with a small budget is
the frame where the rear suspension mounts if rotted; the differential mount
if cracked (quite common, usually right-front goes), and perhaps the floors
if they're rotted out. Sills are possible, but then you may have to get into
painting, which can eat your money quite quickly. Sills aren't as critical on
a '6 as they are on an MGB, because of the frame. Work on reliability before
you get too into perfecting it's looks, especially with a budget that can't
buy a lot of bodywork.
Convertible tops aren't too hard. I did mine and have had no real
problems. Go slow, trial-fit things, and don't forget you'll get a bit of
shrinkage when it's cold.
Dashboards are labor-intensive (lots of switches and knobs to remove).
However, you'll get a chance to get at all those wires, some of which are
probably smoked or kludged (mine are). Just be very careful about labelling
things! Don't trust the wiring diagrams either! They're at best mere
approximations of what was actually in the car at the factory, not counting
DPO kludges.
My car has a little rust, nothing major, but mechanically it's
getting into shape and has gotten pretty reliable. It's UGLY "sienna brown",
but it drives. This winter's project is to pull the tranny and rebuild it
(layshaft bearings, and now maybe main bearings, plus driveshaft U-joints and
check the clutch).
--
Randell Jesup, Scala US R&D, Ex-Commodore-Amiga Engineer class of '94
Randell.Jesup@scala.com
Exon food: <offensive words censored by order of the Senate>
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