triumphs
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Bschwartz@encad.com (Barry Schwartz)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:20:27 -0800
Cc: lseidman@erols.com
>
> I had the same problem with my TR3B. I though it always ran hot or was 
> getting ready to overheating. Not the case. The car after warming up 
> would always read at 3/4's on the guage not at 1/2 or normal temp.(I'm 
> not sure what the guage says)After checking the thermostat and 
> radiator cap I got a "candymakers" thermometer from the local hardware 
> store (they are getting harder to find all the time!) and let the car 
> warm up. I let it cool down enoough so that i could take the radiator 
> cap off and making sure there was a filled radiator put the 
> thermometer in the radiator and let the car run at idle while checking 
> the thermometer. Sure enough the thermometer read about 15-20 lower 
> than the guage and the car never has overheated even in the worst heat 
> of the summer.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
One must be careful here, temperature readings at the cap, do not
necessarily reflect temperatures at the head/block,  if you have a
restriction or flow problem the temperature at the radiator can be much
lower than the engine.  Think for a minute.  During warmup the engine temp
is rising while the radiator temp changes very little until the thermostat
starts to open.  In fact if all is working as it should the temperature will
and should be lower at the radiator than the engine.  The thermostat
controling the flow to regulate temperature - accurate readings of  engine
temperature must be taken at the temp. sender location.  One could have a
perfectly cool radiator, whilst the engine is overheating!  A more accurate
reading would be to take the temp. reading on the head/block where the temp
sender resides.  Your thermometer will work here, just make sure it has good
contact with the head/block.

by the way, Lenny the "rope in the cylinder method" is a way to break the
seal of the head gasket by inserting a good length of rope (more then the
compressed volume) into a couple of cylinders at their lower stroke
positions, and using the starter to jamb the rope-cushioned pistons against
the head - brutal but it works. . . sometimes.

Barry Schwartz
Bschwartz@encad.com (work)
Bschwart@pacbell.net (home)
(San Diego)
70' Spitfire (under-going major surgery) ,  72'-V6 Spitfire (daily driver)
70'GT6+    


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