The way to make everything come out of the bore (once you have the MC off the
car) is to undo the tipping valve assembly. For this you will need a 1/2" size
allen key (some people can do this with a bolt which has the right head size).
Once the tipping valve assembly is out the rest of the internals will fall out
with gentel tapping on the MC with soemthing soft like wood or a rubber
mallet.
I'll be curious to know if once you replace the seals, the front piston (ie.
the first one into the bore upon replacement) will sort of fall in (as opposed
to needing some force to get it in like one would expect with a seal). I'm
having a probelm bleeding my brakes after rebuilding the MC and this is the
only reason I can think of. My front cylinder literally drops in to the bore
whith no resistance. Another lister suggested that perhaps the bore is tapered
but I do not know if this is the case.
Good luck and let us know (or me at least) what happens with the front piston.
Peter Zaborski, Calgary AB Canada
76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
peterz@merak.com
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From: libertyc[SMTP:libertyc@erols.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 1996 4:50 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: TR6 Brake Master Rebuild
Hello Group - I'll be rebuilding the TR6 brake master cylinder in the
next week or two and wondered if anyone would care to share helpful hints
before I dig in (besides going with Girling kit). I saw nothing in the
VTR or SOL pages. TIA.
Carl Huppert
75 TR6
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