jacad wrote:
>
> Jack Wrote
>
> From: jibrooks@juno.com (Jack I Brooks)
> Subject: Re: TR3 engine knocking, Help
>
> I am not loving life right now. The TR3 we purchased a
> month ago seem to be developing a loud regular knock at the front of the
> engine, which I am hoping is the big end of number one cylinder, and not
> a crank bearing.
> Help!
> All you regular TR wrenchers. It has come on fast, less than 200 miles;
> almost sounds like it could be from the water pump, but I feel it is
> from the cylinder #1 area. Rattles at idle, up to around 4,000 RPM,
> where it seem to go away, maybe. I was planning on checking out the
> bearings this winter because of low, 15 psi oil pressure when hot. The
> cold oil pressure is 70 psi, limited by the pressure relief valve. I
> took it out cleaned it, and later adjusted it to be sure that it was
> working.
>
> If the problem is a crank main bearing, can that be done from underneath
> also like the big ends? I only discovered this noise today and my
> preliminary reading of the manuals is not clear.
>
> If anyone has any ideas or things to check out, I would appreciate your
> guidance. Also, if anyone has redone the bottom end with the engine in
> the car, I would appreciate your titbits of wisdom. I will be working
> with the original service manual and the Haynes manual. The car was
> going up on jackstands for the winter soon anyhow. Anyone live near
> northeastern New Jersey that is willing to swing by and take a listen
> please drop me a line. I can't get into it for a couple of weeks
> anyhow.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Jack Brooks
> Hillsdale, New Jersey
> 1960 TR3-A TS69032L
>
> Jack,
>
> Trust your instincts, Look at the body of the waterpump installed on
> your motor. If you see a grease ("zerk") fitting on the right top of the
> body then your pump is an original-style water pump. If the grease zerk
> is not there, then somewhere along the line the pump was changed and
> this could well be your problem. The body of the replacement pump that
> Moss, Victoria British and I believe even TRF sell are different in
> shape than the original. To be fitted properly, the body of the pump has
> to be ground down in a number of spots or else the pulley will touch the
> body emitting a sort of high pitched rubbing sound that is easily
> mistaken for a knock. It's practically impossible to see with the eye if
> the pulley is rubbing but I would suggest taking a bit to WD40 or grease
> and "injecting it behind the pulley. This won't stop the problem but if
> the noise level drops considerably then that's your problem and at least
> you will know how to go about fixing it. (replace it with an original
> rebuilt waterpump). Originally when I restored my engine, I installed
> the replacement pump and after 100 miles the "knocking" developed. It
> sounded awful and would vary in intensity with the engine revs and would
> eventually disappear at about 3500-4000 revs. I tried grinding the body
> of the pump 2 or 3 times to no avail and finally seccumed to changing it
> for a rebuilt original. The problem was instantly resolved and I've been
> a happy camper ever since.
> If this isn't your problem and you are seriously thinking of replacing
> your crank bearings I can give you some tips, but see if it isn't your
> pump first.
>
> (BTW I'll be flying over you on my way to Fla in about 4 weeks, if you
> want to open your garage and start your engine I'd be happy to try and
> listen.)
>
> Good luck
>
> Barry Shefner
> 59 TR3A OTS 57675
|