Mark R. Anderton wrote:
>
> On Sat, 18 Jan 1997 05:26:52 -0700 "Barry H. Adams"
> <badams@cyberport.com> writes:
> >I need to replace some of the body (male) snaps that attaches the soft
> >top
> >to the rear deck. I assume that you drill out the old snap centers,
> >but
> >I've never done any blind riveting before. I'd appreciate it if
> >someone
> >could give me a primer on blind riveting.
> >
> >snip...
>
>
> Problem - on these snaps, the flange on the top of the rivet is below the
> upper surface of the snap body. The rivet gun depends upon being able to
> press on the top of the rivet for a secure grip. If you just let the
> nose of the gun pull against the top of the snap body, the rivet will
> pop, but it will not have compressed completely, so the snap won't be
> tight, and you may damage the snap body in the process. I solved this
> problem by putting a very small washer ove the rivet against which the
> nose of the gun can bear. The washer has to be small enough to fit
> inside the recess in the top of the snap body. I remember having a hard
> time finding one small enough to fit, and it's pretyy tedious having to
> put the washer over each rivet as you put it in. Maybe you could
> fabricate a special nose piece for the gun that fits into the top of the
> snap.
>
>
> Good luck,
> Mark Anderton
>
>Nice idea from Mark using the washer to raise the contact point inside
the snap for the nose to compress against. I would also suggest looking
around at various auto shops, especially those that specialize in
upholstry and top restoration. I beleive you can buy a rivet gun nose
that is specifically designed to fit in snaps. Also, as they say,
practise makes perfect. Whatever method you end up using, practise
before going to the car. I find using the metal top from a jar makes
a great practice material. You'll be able to test how tight the rivet
compresses and get the feel for how much force is needed to secure the
rivet. Deffinitely use aluminum.
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
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