DUHART JOHN wrote:
> Well I started removing the U-Joints on the TR6 last
> After starting this job I have to assume (or hope)
> there is an easier way to remove these u-joints than what
> I did last night.
It sounds like what you are doing is the right approach.
Yes, if these joints have not been removed in a long time,
you are in for quite a lot of work.
There was an article on how to do this, with lots of
photographs, back in a prior issue of The Vintage
Triumph (somewhere in the range of issue #43-60; I don't
recall which, but could check tonight, if you have access
to back issues.)
When I did this recently with my U-joints, I was quite
concerned about the amount of force required, and the
possibility of bending/damaging the yokes. Depending on
how you attempt to press them out in a vice, you could
damage (bend) the yokes.
First off, I would suggest soaking the whole thing with
penetrating oil the night before, particularly if the
joints haven't been changed in decades. This step
will probably be required to get the circlips out if
things have started to rust at all. If you got all the
circlips out with no problems, rusted cups probably
won't be a major difficulty.
I tried to think of a way to get the u-joints out with the
least possibility of damaging the yoke. What I ended up
doing, at the suggestion of various people, plus suggestions
from the above mentioned article, was to open the vise to
the width of the u-joint, and lay the yoke on the partially
opened vise, so that the yoke is supported on either side by
the vise, but is not actually clamped into the vise.
Then, using a 1-1/8" lifetime guarantee socket, (you'll want
the lifetime guarantee socket for when it cracks down the
middle), set the socket (open-end down) on top of the one
yoke that is vertical. The idea is to press the yoke down
around the u-joint. The u-joint is held up by the vise. In
this way, nearly all of the "bending" stress is carried by
the u-joint to be replaced, rather than the yokes, which you
will be re-using. Then hit the socket with the big solid
hammmer. If it is a brand new joint, one nice hit will push
the yoke down around the cup, and it will pop right out.
If, however, this joint has been in your car since it left
the factory, and wasn't well protected against rust
by a protective coating of leaking motor, tranny, or diff oil,
you'll need to hit a lot, HARD, just to get it to move 1/8"!
Eventually, however, it will come out. I found that I had
to whack progressively harder until I was absolutely sure
I was going to break either the hammer, vise, socket, joint,
or something else. Nothing ever actually broke when I did
this -- the cup always gave way first. Once you have gotten
it to move the first time, you're practically home free.
Note that I would suggest wearing goggles and hearing
protectors while doing this, as the noise is tremendous, and
penetrating oil is likely to splash in any direction, particularly
into unshielded eyes!
> 30 minutes (maybe more) and I'm half way done with removing
> my first u-joint (oh boy, this will take some time).
This takes a long time, but you will get better with
> how does one get the new u-joint in without removing the caps from
> the u-joint? Are the ujoints suppose to be so tightly fitted to the
> flang? Without a vice I never would of stood a chance.
You can't get the new joints out without removing the caps.
What I did was clean up the yoke as much as possible after
extracting the old joints. Putting the whole yoke in a
parts washer would be ideal, but I didn't do this, as I
didn't disassemble the slip-joints or the rear hubs. (Rear
hubs, BTW, should probably be left to a shop with proper
tools -- irreparably damaged TR6 rear hubs are a dime a dozen...)
After cleaning the yoke up as much as possible, disassemble the
u-joint, and lightly press the cap in from the outside. The
needle bearings will be held in the cap by the small bit of
grease which came with them. If you're joint had no grease
in it initially, add a small amount -- you don't want more
than you need, as it will just provide more area for dirt to
Then gently manipulate the joint itself into the yokes, and
gently (by hand!) make sure that the joint is properly fitting
into the cap without disturbing the needle bearings. Then,
put the cap/yoke/joint assembly into the vise, and press the
cap in. Repeat this procedure for all of the caps. Getting the
new joints in is very easy compared to getting the old ones
> Are the ujoints suppose to be so tightly fitted to the
Yes. This is purely a press fit. Even the slightest bit of
play between the cup and the yoke would cause the yoke to
wear away, and require replacement of the yoke.
Kenneth B. Streeter | EMAIL: firstname.lastname@example.org
Sanders, PTP2-A001 |
PO Box 868 | Voice: (603) 885-9604
Nashua, NH 03061 | Fax: (603) 885-0631