The following from a Moss Motoring article, was written by professor Robert
Koval, Westmont NJ and scanned into this message by me. I hope it
1. With the engine and parking brake OFF and the vehicle pointed in a safe
direction, use a gas station type hydraulic jack to lift both rear wheels so
they are clear of the ground by about
2. The driver then climbs into the car and confirms that there are no
obstacles or people in front of the vehicle.
3. With the engine and parking brake still OFF, the transmission is
shifted into high gear
4. The engine is started and throttled up to a constant tachometer
reading of about 1500 rpm.
5. The driver depresses the clutch pedal and KEEPS IT DEPRESSED.
6. With the clutch pedal depressed the brakes (parking or foot pedal,
it doesn't matter which) are GENTLY applied.
If the rust bond between the flywheel and the clutch disc is fairly
week, the clutch disc should pop free during light to medium braking.
A. Brakes should not be applied excessively hard or allowed to slip for
extended periods because this will only overheat the shoes and drums
unnecessarily However, we do have a beck-up plan!
B. If the clutch disc does not come free after a few gentle attempts as
described thus proceed to more drastic measures as offered in step 7 and
here you will need an assistant!
7. Confirm that the following conditions am extant:
Engine is at 1500 rpm.
Clutch pedal is depressed fully.
Transmission is in high gear.
Rear wheels are off the ground and turning.
NO obstacles are in front of the car
Driver is prepared to stop vehicle and switch engine off immediately!
Your assistant "snaps" open the valve of the hydraulic jack and the rear
of the car drops to the ground. Because the clutch pedal is depressed, only
rust is holding the clutch disc to the flywheel. When the rear wheels hit
the ground the engine attempts to move the car forward (transmission in high
gear remember?) but the rust bond between the clutch disc and the flywheel
breaks under the torque load. The clutch disc should break away from the
flywheel with the finesse comparable to that of on experienced child who can
separate on Oreo cookie from the white stuff without generating a crumb!
This method is gentle and effective even if step 7 must be repeated (a
rare situation) because the vehicle is never subjected to the "irresistible
force meeting an immovable object scenario, since the car can move forward
should the clutch disc not break free when the rear wheels hit the ground.
Use at your own risk!
From: John Peacock <email@example.com>
To: Carol Zingone <firstname.lastname@example.org>; email@example.com
Date: Wednesday, October 29, 1997 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Sybill, The Tranny & The Clutch
>Your problem may not be as serious as you think. It sounds like your cars
>clutch is frozen. Call it part of the Triumph disease, as it is very
>common. I am sure someone out there has a solution for releasing the
>clutch lets hear it.
>> From: Carol Zingone <firstname.lastname@example.org>
>> To: email@example.com
>> Subject: Sybill, The Tranny & The Clutch
>> Date: Wednesday, October 29, 1997 6:43 AM
>> Attempted to start Sybill this morning in gear and leisurely drive her
>> to the shop for the *professional* diagnosis. Won't start in gear.
>> Only tried reverse. When I parked her around Labor Day, she would start
>> in gear.
>> The input I've gotten suggests that if the above occurs, the clutch is
>> not disengaging. Considering that I've rebuilt the slave and master
>> cylinders, I'm assuming the next step is to replace those components to
>> totally eliminate them as culprits.
>> I recall Moss having the master at about $140, and the slave around
>> $40-$50. Does anyone have a better price/product/experience ? I'd
>> like to order today (of course) so I can replace Saturday. I'll be
>> checking with my shop dudes too.
>> Thanks again !
>> Carol Zingone
>> 74 TR6 -- Sybill The Cranky One (getting closer!) ((I think/hope/pray))