[BOUNCE triumphs@Autox.Team.Net: Non-member submission from [Peter Mchugh
<"/c=US/admd=ATTMAIL/prmd=gov+dot/o=FAA/ou=FAAgw/dd.ccMail=Peter Mchugh 'at'
AWAASY1PO/"@dotms2-gw.dot.gov>]]
Date: 08 Dec 1997 11:45:35 -0500
From: Peter Mchugh
<"/c=US/admd=ATTMAIL/prmd=gov+dot/o=FAA/ou=FAAgw/dd.ccMail=Peter Mchugh 'at'
AWAASY1PO/"@dotms2-gw.dot.gov>
Subject: Re: floorpans
I would,d replace the floor pan rather than do patch work repairs...
which inevitably do not last anyway...
You can chose to do a whole pan replacement (the replacement panels come in
right or left side pieces for about $125.00 each, or depending on condition,
you might just replace the forward section from about the cross support box
member (immediately forward of the seats), forward.
All of the welds, except the seam you will create along the trans/driveshaft
tunnel, will be exterior spot welds (or plug welds) and fairly easy to
accomplish. The front of each pan is welded to a flange on the bottom of the
firewall... you will need to remove the tub mounting bolts (at least 6 of
them) at the front and in the top of the cross support box and separate the
tub from the frame enough to permit cutting out the old pan, and to allow
insertion of the new pan.
I used aluminum rivets to hold things until I got welds in place.
If you find much rust in the rockers, you may wish to replace those as
well...but that is a longer job and is discussed in other messages here on the
list.
You will want to paint the new metal with a good protective coating
like POR or Corroles...after welding.
The pan is connected to the inner rockers, and to the front firewall... I
fabricated and used enough small 20 gauge brackets to cover and strengthen the
entire seam along the lower outside edge of the floor pan where it butts to
the inner front fenders... I used seam sealer along all seams... really gooped
the stuff into the seam from the box beam forward and across the joint at the
firewall.
You may find that you need to replace the cross support box beam too... these
are available for about $40.00... they are easy to install too and once
removed let you do a neat job on a seam if you replace only the forward half
of the pan. (These forward pan sections used to be available... don't know if
they still are or not... and I hate to sacrifice a full floor panel to get
just the front half....
It will save you a little bother if you drill out the hole in the
right floor pan for the battery box drain before you install the pan...
The "A" Post is the vertical post on the tub to which the door hinges
mount. The "B" post is the vertical post on the tub to which the door
latching plate is attached.
Good luck
PMcQ
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