>>After checking the carbs, I found the jet in the carb body is elongated
>>(ie, they are no longer round). My experience with SU's on the MGB has
>>been if the jets are worn, the car will never run correctly so I assume the
>>same is true for the Zenith.
>*********************************
>Terry,
>I'm afraid your out of luck. The jet orifice in Strombergs is a pressed in
>item and not replaceable, at least on later emission carb's, the ones you
>adjust with a 'special' tool. The needles are but the jet itself is not.
>Apparently BL didn't want (or worry) about wearing these items out. Your
>only recourse is to 'ulp' replace the carb's.
>
>
>Barry Schwartz
>bschwart@pacbell.net
Sometimes a good trick for bringing a worn carb back to life without the
expense or downtime of rebuilding is to simply alter the float level.
Remember that carbs work on vaccuum - both for sucking in fuel and for
raising the air valve. If the carb is in decent enough condition that the
air valve functions properly with full travel (i.e. no air getting past the
throttle shafts) you can fine tune the mixture by altering the height of the
float, thereby changing the vaccuum required to draw fuel out of the bowl.
If the carb is too rich and cannot be adjusted any further, try lowering the
float level in 1mm increments until the mixture can be set correctly with
the needle. Remember that to LOWER the float level, you will INCREASE the
dimension used to check the FLOAT HEIGHT. Try 17 -18mm to start and work
from there.
We discovered this when a PO had installed incorrect needles in a set of
Strombergs and in the process mangled the air valve making it impossible to
remove them and install the correct ones. Since then, we've used this
technique to save a number of cars from expensive rebuilds, however, it is
not a cure-all for all carbs. Be sure to also check for excessive wear at
the throttle shafts and air valve guides before deciding against a complete
rebuild.
Good Luck!!!
Regards,
Brian Schlorff '64 TR-4 '71 TR-6 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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