>
>Ok, should I get the crankshaft machined down or should I
replace with a new
>one?
Wayne,
I agree with the advise your getting. But the crank is
probably just fine and having it cut 10 or 20 thousands is
just fine as long as it has not been cut to 20 already.
My TR4 engine was giving me symptoms but had good
compression and no smoke. When I pulled the engine I found
the rod bearing in the same shape you described and heavy
wear on the main bearings. I was very concerned but the
crank was at STD only needed .010 to be perfect.
I did find the oil pump, cam and cam bearings, rocker
bushes and shaft, pushros, lifters, dizzy drive bush to all
be heavily worn. The valves were receeding and very worn.
The pistons and sleeves were ok but many miles on them. I
decided to replace all the insides... pistons and liners
included.
You can do it your self with a Haynes manual (step-by-step)
and some help from the list. I would be happy to help on
occasion.
I also toke the opportunity to have modern SS valves, valve
seal and hardened insets... as well as modifiing the crank
for a modern rear seal conversion.
The winter is a good time for this work... but the car will
be like new.
Brian Sanborn
62 TR4 CT16260L Groton,MA
sanborn@net1plus.com
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