Rob :
IMO the gaskets that usually leak on H6s can be fairly easily changed with
the carbs on the car. At least on my TR3A, it's easier to do them on the
car than to pull the carbs off (which still isn't all that bad a job). It
should be even easier on your TR6.
Basically, there are only two places that are likely to leak.
The first is the fitting where the float bowl attaches to the carb body.
Depending on which H6 you have, there is either a bolt or a stud with a
nut, which has a special flat washer and two special rubber washers (one on
each side of the float bowl casting). Remove the air cleaner, float lid,
then the bolt or nut, and the float bowl should come off, dumping gas all
over (unless it already all leaked out <g>). Note that all the nuts/bolts
on the carbs use Whitworth wrenches. (As best I can tell, the threads are
BA, except for the mixture adjustment, which I can't identify.) A 6"
Crescent makes a reasonable substitute. I don't know quite what happened,
but for awhile I had to replace those gaskets every 6 months or so. IMO
the additives in unleaded gas were eating the old rubber, and eventually
the gasket makers switched to a new compound. Anyway, put new gaskets in
place and "reverse disassembly" <g>. Don't try to overtighten the bolt/nut
to stop the leak. It won't work, and runs the risk of ruining your carb
body.
The other place that leaks is the lower jet seal. Remove the air cleaner,
disconnect the choke linkage from the jet and spring, and push it out of
the way. Then unscrew the entire jet assembly at the big nut. Be sure to
catch the upper jet housing, and the copper washer on top of it. Moss
sells O-ring type jet seals that seem to last much longer than the original
cork ones do. If you just replace the jet seals, and don't disturb the
mixture nut, the mixture should be pretty close when you reassemble.
However, the jet will still have to be centered. While it's out, make
sure the outer surface of the jet is smooth. The suggestion to polish it
with Brasso is probably a good one.
Note : I don't claim this is a substitute for a full rebuild. But, I've
kept carbs "on the road" for many years by only changing those 4 gaskets
(which are also much cheaper than a full rebuild kit).
Randall
59 TR3A
On Monday, September 13, 1999 7:30 AM, Rob Christopher
[SMTP:robc@cisco.com] wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> Well on top of all the little (and big) things I'm trying to settle on
> my TR6, my recently identified SU H6 carbs have decided to become
> incontenent. After a short trip Friday night to check if flushing the
> rad again has brought the running temp down, I returned to my garage and
> popped the hood.
>
> I was greeted by the sight of gas dripping at a high rate from the
> bottom of the jet of the front carb. Said drips would land on the wheel
> arch and splash onto the hot manifold. Where's that fire
> extinguisher?!?!
>
> So, is this an easy fix or should I just put "Reggie" on jack stands and
> start pulling the tranny, diff, oil pump, front suspension, and radiator
> as well as now the carbs as all need rebuilding/new seals, and other
> attention.
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