Steve Nabors wrote:
> Dave,
> I'd like to clean my TR6 engine but the drooling coninues no matter what.
> I siliconed the top of the gasket=>oil comes through the bottom.
> I siliconed top and bottom =>it comes right through the cork.
> I'll be glad when theres a silicone gasket for my 6 cylinder.
> Straight silicone glue(no cork) will be my next attempt.
> To answer your question:
>
> J. M. WagnerSales,Ltd.
> http://www.greenheart.com/jmwagner
>
> --
>
> David Lee wrote:
> >for some reason i cant get my gasket to stop
> >leaking. It was fine before I took it to the shop and now its just drooling
> >all over the place. strange.
> >
> >thanks
> >David Lee
> >64 tr4
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
Steve and others having trouble sealing their valve covers,
Here's a nifty trick I use on concours engines that makes for a nice looking
installation and provides excellent sealing:
Be sure to clean all the old sealer from around the valve cover lip. Wipe with
degreaser. Place the cover upside down and apply a THIN bead of gasket sealer
(I
prefer Permatex Ultra Black for valve cover gaskets) to the inside edge of the
flange
that holds the gasket - the idea is to keep sealer from oozing out toward the
outside
of the gasket. Lay 6 drinking straws across the top of the cover and gently
place the
gasket on those. (If you've ever laminated a countertop, you get the idea how
this
works.) Now starting at the back end of the cover, carefully tape the gasket
in place
to the valve cover - use loops of 3M blue masking tape that peels off easily or
you
might tear some of the cork later. Continue taping equally on both sides until
you
get to the front, removing the straws as you go. You should now have a good
seal
between the thin bead of sealer and the cover. Turn the valve cover right-side
up and
place it on a nice, flat, clean surface. Put a medium weight on the top of the
cover
(I usually balance a gallon paint can or similar on top). Let dry overnight.
Next
day remove the tape. Your gasket is now glued to the valve cover and should
now have
a good flat surface on the bottom of the cork. Take more sealer and run a
generous
bead on the INSIDE VERTICAL surface of the gasket - not the bottom sealing
surface,
but the inner edge. Spread the bead with your finger so that you've got solid
sealer
filling the seam between gasket and cover. Hold your finger off the cork at the
bottom to leave a ribbon of sealer hanging over the edge slightly. With
practice, you
should also be able to get a thin lip of sealer that sort of rolls over on the
bottom
of the cork - i.e. the sealing surface. If not, apply a very thin bead only
around
the inner bottom edge next to where you spread the sealer on the inside face.
Wipe the top of the head with degreaser as well as the threads on the studs.
Run a
generous loop of sealer around the lower 1/3 of the threaded portion of the
studs
until you have a donut about 5/8" diameter sticking to the stud - this will
stick to
the underside of the valve cover. Don't skimp here - you need a good bead for
best
adhesion to the cover as you don't want the sealer to fall off down into the
engine.
Put the cover on, press it down with only moderate hand pressure, and tighten
the nuts
until they just touch the cover and NO FURTHER! Let the sealer do the work for
you.
If done successfully, you should now have a continuous wall of sealer bridging
the
cork from head to cover providing a thorough seal while giving the appearance
on the
outside that there's just cork with no sealer oozing out the edges.
Not the easiest of procedures, but sure is a slick appearance and is very
leakproof as
well!
Good luck!
Regards,
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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