Bob Labuz wrote :
>
> The gearbox is adjustable to a point. Look at your shop
> manual for the screw on
> later boxes and a nut on the earlier ones on the top of the
> box right next to
> the filler nut. There is a locking nut which you have to
> release to tighten the
> screw. Similar to adjusting a valve rocker. This should take
> some slack out of
> the steering.
All quite right, but a word of caution : there is supposed to be some slop
in the steering when it is off-center. Attempting to remove it by either
tightening the screw more, or by removing more shims, than recommended by
the factory procedure, will lead to rapid failure of the worm (which costs
over $200US when they are available). (BTDT <g>) The resistance at center
is supposed to be _very_ slight.
The peg and the drop arm bush/seal are inexpensive, and easily replaced
(once you have the box out of the car). IMO worth doing during a rebuild.
I also found that setting the end float "by feel" left about .004" end play.
Using an inexpensive dial indicator and stand, I was able to set the endplay
to .000".
Randall
59 TR3A
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