Joe,
You also neglected to mention that DOT 5 does not absorb moisture the way
DOT 4 will, making it a far superior choice for drivers that only
occasionally tool around in their cars. The chance of corrosion in the
braking system is greatly reduced. Remember too that DOT 5 was developed by
the military for vehicles that sit around in storage for long periods of
time, but need to be mobilized on short notice.
>From another DOT 5 convert -- and very happy I made the switch.
Best wishes,
Jeff in San Diego
'67 RHD Spitfire Mk3 aka "Mrs. Jones"
'68 LHD Spitfire Mk3 frame-off resto project
Jeff's Classic '67 Spitfire Mk3 site & Vintage Spitfire Webring
http://www.ohms.com/spitfire/spitfire.shtml
home of the NEW Totally Triumph Auction
"By Triumph enthusiasts, for Triumph enthusiasts"
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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>
To: Phil Ethier <pethier@isd.net>
Cc: Daniel S. Eiland <deiland1@elp.rr.com>; Tigers@autox,team.net
<tigers@autox.team.net>; Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>; Alpines
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 6:54 AM
Subject: Re: Cleaning out the hydraulics
>
> No,
> You miss the point. Leaks are inevitable. Sooner or later you will have
brake fluid on your paint. DOT actually works at least as
> well as LMA fluid so why not eliminate the problem that occurs when the
master cylinders leak.
>
> I have also noticed that when the master cylinders get hot, LMA fluid
expands somewhat (and maybe DOT 5 does too). That causes small
> amounts of fluid to escape from the weep hole in the top of the cap and
onto the paint. So even if there are no leaks you can get the
> stuff onto your paint (Not to mention fools like me that can't pour
straight)
>
> So therefore the best of both worlds. Just because the Manufacturer
didn't use DOT 5 (not available back then) doesn't mean we can't!
>
> Joe
>
> P.S. Yes, rebuilding the system is recommended when introducing DOT 5.
Rubber hoses tend to weaken over time and will swell when
> pressure is applied thus making the pedal feel spongy. And redundency is
not a bad thing, NASA uses it in all their systems. Better
> safe than sorry!
>
> Phil Ethier wrote:
> >
> > From: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>
> > To: Phil Ethier <pethier@isd.net>
> > Cc: Daniel S. Eiland <deiland1@elp.rr.com>; Tigers@autox,team.net
> > <tigers@autox.team.net>; Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>; Alpines
> > <alpines@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 11:37 PM
> > Subject: Re: Cleaning out the hydraulics
> >
> > >Phil,
> > >The madness doesn't pass. It only gets worse each time you detect
another
> > leak and more paint eaten off!!!
> > >
> > >DOT 5 is the only way to go!
> >
> > So your solution to leaky hydraulic brakes is to change to a
paint-friendly
> > fluid. I'd rather fix the leaks.
> >
> > I put silicone fluid in a Midget some time back and could never get a
hard
> > pedal. Switched back to Castrol GT LMA and had no problems.
> >
> > The only way to make sure that silicone works is to completely rebuild
your
> > system. That should take care of your leaks anyway, so the fluid-swap
> > becomes redundant.
> >
> > Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> > 1970 Lotus Europa, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1986 Suburban, 1962 Triumph TR4
CT2846L
> > LOON, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.mnautox.com/
> > "It makes a nice noise when it goes faster"
> > - 4-year-old Adam, upon seeing a bitmap of Grandma Susie's TR4.
>
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