> Not really. Valves too tight means the exhaust valves will quickly burn
> up (if you can get the engine to run at all), too loose means there's
> nothing in the cylinder to fire.
Thanks Randall... This is what I'd always pretty much assumed.
>
> > "Check and if necessary adjust the rocker clearances when the tappet is
> > resting on the back of the cam. To obtain this position, turn the
camshaft
> > until the number one push rod has reached its highest point, then turn a
> > further full revolution to insure the push rod is fully down and the
tappet is
> > resting on the back of the cam."
>
> Either you mis-read the manual, or that's a misprint. It should say
> turn the _engine_ (meaning the crankshaft) a further full turn. This
> will ensure the valve is on the base (back) of the cam, which is where
> the valve clearances should be set.
>
I'm probably mis-reading it. But I guess the point is that you want the
tappet somewhere on the backside of the cam when you adjust the valve...
meaning the valve is fully closed. Right?
> My guess would be that you've got the clearances badly out of whack,
> leading to your "no-start".
I wouldn't doubt that a bit. <g>
> Did you clean the points afterwards, or check (with a voltmeter or test
> lamp) that they were conducting, ie the voltage on the dizzy terminal
> should go to 0 with the key on and the points closed, be 12v with the
> points open ? Also, it's quite easy to get confused when putting points
> back in, the order goes : insulator, point spring, condenser, lead wire
> (order of the condenser and lead don't matter, but they have to be
> adjacent), _then_ the other insulator, flat washer and nut. And, about
> 7 times out of 10, I have to take the cap back off and hunt around for
> the rotor <g>
I did clean them, and after receiving your message, I checked the voltages
as you suggested. The voltage across the points closed was 12v and 0v open.
I'll double-check the assembly order tomorrow.
>
> > I adjusted the distributor as indicated, and it took quite a bit of
clockwise
> > rotation to achieve the above specifications. Does this sound
reasonable?
>
> No, not unless it was badly out of whack to begin with. But, you can't
> tell by looking when the points open for this test, you have to use a
> test lamp. Note that it's entirely possible for the TDC mark on the
> pulley to be wrong. Also, there is some backlash in the cam drive, so
> it's important that you turn the engine forward (clockwise if you're
> standing in front looking back towards the engine), to arrive at the
> timing position.
>
> My suggestion at this point would be to first recheck your valve
> clearances. One good method is to turn the engine by hand until the
> next cylinder (doesn't matter where you start) reaches the "point of
> balance" your book talks about, where the intake valve is just opening
> and the exhaust valve is just closing (don't have to be exact here, just
> reasonably close); then check the clearances on the cylinder that is
> 'opposite' in the firing order. For example :
>
> Turn
> #1 to balance, set #4
> #3 to balance, set #2
> #4 to balance, set #1
> #2 to balance, set #3
>
> Now, turn the engine so #4 is "on balance", and check the position of
> the TDC mark. If it's pretty close (within 1/2" or so), you can assume
> it's accurate, otherwise the pulley is assembled wrong. If it's right,
> turn the engine forward two full turns, stopping just as the marks line
> up. Set the timing vernier on the dizzy to the big mark in the middle,
> turn the dizzy CCW until the points close (as observed with a test lamp
> connected across them and the key on), then back CW until they just
> barely open. Lock the pinch bolt down, but don't overdo it (doesn't
> take much, and overtorquing can break the dizzy body). That timing
> should be plenty close enough to get the engine to run, but to be "spot
> on", you should now turn the vernier in the advance direction (as
> marked) until two more marks show.
Okay... I turned the engine so that the #4 valve was on balance (I assume by
"on balance" you mean on the high point of the lobe, or fully open). The
timing mark for TDC was right on. I then adjusted the distributor using a
votage meter to determine when the points opened (I was pretty close
before). I'll double check the valve clearanced tomorrow using the method
you suggested, then try to fire it up.
> Let us know if this helps or not.
It's actually already helped my understanding (I think) loads! Thanks!
Kurtis J.
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4
http://www.geocities.com/tr4_1963/
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