At 5:30 -0800 12/6/01, Scott Tilton wrote:
>I thought I sent this question already, but I dont see it in my
>sent folder,
>so excuse me if it is a repeat.
>
>I want to change the wheel studs on a TR-4 hub.
>
>It doesnt look like they are pushed in from the back side.
>It looks more like they come in from the front and are peened over
>on the back.
>
>Are they screw in or splined?
>
>Any hints on peening the backs.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Scott Tilton
Scott --
I just went through wheel stud replacement on my TR3 rear hubs (and
front, too, actually). It requires a little patience, a grinder
(cheap $20 model will be fine), and some red loctite. I haven't
driven on the hubs yet, so I can't swear to the effectiveness of what
I'm about to describe!
My method was the same as another lister described to me:
1) grind off as much of the peened over portion on the back of the
hub as you can.
2) Tighten two nuts together on the threaded part - 7/16-20, IIRC -
and use them to start turning the stud out, but only go a little
ways. Some of the misshapen part of the stud will bend out of the
threaded hole.
3) Turn the stud back home, and grind off the part that just came up.
4) Repeat several times, and finally turn the stud all the way out.
Excessive force will mean that you are stripping the threads out of
the hole, so exercise care!
5) I then chased the threads with a tap.
6) Apply red loctite (this is the permanent type stuff!) to the
threads of the studs, and tighten them home. I used the
"goodandtight" rule, using the same nut-locking method I used to get
the studs out.
7) Using a small ball-peen hammer (My punches aren't hard enough to
dent the studs!), I whaled on the back of the stud for a while to
flatten it out. Done!
You may wish to consider that it might be better to perform the last
two steps with no delay in between, as during hammering the loctite
would not be hardened yet and would still be setting up when you are
done hammering. If you wait until it has hardened, then it may be
more brittle, and you might simply break things up when peening over
the back of the stud.
Also, get some earplugs for step 7.
It might also be possible, with some care and patience, to grind off
the "stop" portion of the outside part of the stud, the bit that
butts up against the hub flange itself. This would allow you to turn
the stud out the other way, enabling you to better grind off the
peened-over portion before running it out the front of the hub.
If this all sounds like a lot of trouble, it is. Anyone know why
Triumph didn't simply use the same, relatively simple design they
used on the front hub studs???
HTH - let me know if you have questions!
Dan
--
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Dan Buettner - Des Moines, Iowa - mailto:danb@thelittlemacshop.com
1957 TR3, TS15098L 'O' - with a nice shiny rear axle installed!
Front suspension back together too, & steering box coming along nicely.
1977 Spitfire, FM64159U 'O' - in storage.
Visit the Team.Net Triumph list member pages at:
http://www.thelittlemacshop.com/trsite/index.html
Photos, downloads, member bios, and more!
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// with nothing in it but
///
/// unsubscribe triumphs
///
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
|