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Hot street setup

To: tri mail list <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Hot street setup
From: Chuck Arnold <chuck.arnold@oracle.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 19:50:05 -0800
Organization: Oracle corporation
Saw no Harry Potter, can't beat Terri Anne's take but --
I did the head, I did the webbers, I did the headers, I had a great two
week run.  Then....it broke!!!!
I replaced the rod bears that turned, rebuilt the crank and oil pump,
bored it and put the new pistons [golly, forgot the nitrite], lightened
the flywheel, replaced the fan with electric, now it hits a 120 on the
strait at Seattle International Raceway.  Now if the tranny and diff
will just hold up [they both have met a demise last year, the rebuilts
whoud hold].

Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 17:36:22 -0800
From: Pete & Aprille Chadwell <pandachadwell@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Hot street setup

>Hello all-
>
>One of my winter projects is to give my TR-4 0-60 times under 5
seconds,
>primarily through putting weber DCOE 40s, tubular headers, a hot cam,
and the
>factory optional rocket assisted takeoff package.  (just kidding about
the
>0-60 time and the rockets...im aiming for "slightly faster than a dodge

>caravan that is in full racing trim (8 seats ripped out, nothing in
>cupholders)"
>
>I have the Weber carbs and the headers already lined up...

Noah:

Wow
 you really had me rolling on the floor with that first sentence!

I don't know what to tell you about the manifold & linkage. It may be
difficult to find by itself on the used market.  Anyone likely to
have a manifold that they're willing to sell is probably also trying
to sell the carbs that are attached to it.  Best of luck!

My understanding is that generally speaking, you really should only
install those giant Weber DCOEs (which are beautiful, by the way,
love to have a set on my TR6) after a very, very thorough engine
rebuild.  Now, I suppose if a guy was careful, maybe he could get
away with just a rebuild of the cylinder head, but only if the block
was KNOWN to be in pretty good shape.  Making that drastic a change
to the induction and potential power output really does require a lot
of other work in preparation, in my opinion, and I'm pretty sure I
would be supported in that statement my most on this list.  I'd
suggest going pretty mild with the cam, and as recently discussed on
this list, don't buy a header unless you are willing to spend some
serious dollars for it.  The cheap ones are just that
 cheap.  They
ain't worth it.

[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of 
chuck.arnold.vcf]

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