I have no way of knowing if they will ever improve them.
I have the original exhaust manifold, so I don't think heat is the cause.
It's the tarnish or oxide that develops on the disc and contacts inside the
unit.
I made a small sheetmetal bracket for my TR3A that has a "normally open"
microswitch on it. I carry this in my toolbox as my spare now. If needed,
the bracket is bolted to one of the mounting bolts next to the brake pedal
under the dash. The microswitch is mounted between me and the suspended
brake pedal arm. The "normally open" lever arm on the microswitch just
touches the suspended arm. When I brake, the pedal and arm move forward.
This allows the spring-loaded lever on the switch to move forward to the
"closed" position. It takes me about 20 minutes to install this and feed
the wire through a grommet hole down to the existing switch location where I
connect it to the wire going to the rear lamps, should it ever become
defective again. If you disconnect the usual wires at the hydraulic switch,
tape them over - one is still live when you brake.
I also have increased the "brightness" of my rear running/brake lights with
halogens I bought from J.C. Whitney. They have been in about 5 years now
and no problems (none burned out) and they didn't melt the red plastic
lenses.
I also tried brighter halogens for the directional signals and the extra
watts caused my clicker relay to get fried. I had to replace it and I went
back to regular bulbs or the directional signals.
Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Montreal, Canada
P.S. - My TR is not a daily driver, but I have driven it 60,000 miles in the
last eleven summers. I took 2nd in my Concours class at VTR in Colorado
after driving it there in August. Total trip was 5220 miles.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Cc: Michael Gajic <michaelgajic@hotmail.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: TR4 Brake Light Switch
> elliottd wrote:
> >
> > I submitted a tech report on this to the supplier (TRF) and hopefully
the UK
> > Manufacturer is making the inner discs now out of two cents worth of
> > stainless instead of a "Penny".
>
> Don, if you learn this is true, let me know and I'll try another
> hydraulic switch.
>
> I was suffering an even higher rate of failure, roughly one every 6
> months in my daily driver. Since I don't have headers, I attributed
> this to the higher power brake light bulbs I use. After even trying a
> hydraulic switch from an American car (old Buick as I recall), that also
> only lasted a few months, I converted to a mechanical style switch. It
> has gone over a year so far, with no signs of trouble, even though I
> added even more brake lights last summer.
>
> Randall
> 59 TR3A daily driver
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