I stayed home today and began removing the passenger's side floor out
of the TR3. What an ordeal.
The car is a driver/rolling restoration. On the passengers side in the
front left corner where the floor panel rests on the "Y" of the frame, there
is a blind spot where I can't get to to grind out the spot welds. I am
thinking that I might be able to cut the spot welds using "Sawzall" between
the firewall and floor panel. Any other suggestions?
Also, the prop-shaft cover appears to be aluminum, but was welded to
the floor panel. Am I losing it? How can this be? Maybe it is just shiny
steel or something.
A little humor: The TRF book for the TR3 suggests that if the doors
don't fit right that you can use extra body mounting pads to raise or lower
sections of the car ("Give this concept some thought, and you will be able
to do a lot with it" they say). My passenger door always rubs steel to steel
at the rear top corner. I thought that I would do the pad thing. When I cut
the floor out today I discovered that the body mounting bracket (to the
outrigger) has broken welds and the body has sagged at the rear door.
Alas, one more thing to do. Dementia. Shipwrights disease.
Also, the car had a "cranked" shift lever from a TR6. I put another
shift lever that was shorter and straighter on it and had the fine threads
that fit the TR3 stick shift knob. The TR6 used a 5/16ths coarse thread. The
TR3 shift lever still looks a bit long. Some I've seen look shorter. Could I
still have the wrong shift lever somehow? Also, I need another TR3 shift
lever for the OD trans going in the next TR project in waiting. Does anyone
have an extra TR3 shift lever laying around that I could purchase?
Such is life.
Bill Brewer
Tehachapi, CA
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