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spifire carb rebuild (a little long) x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: spifire carb rebuild (a little long) x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
From: Dan Von Seggern <danvon@scripps.edu>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 11:34:54 -0800
Organization: The Scripps Research Institute
Hi all.

first, thanks for all the responses to my previous posting about whether
to redo my carb.  On the collected advice of many of you, I went ahead
and did it (using the VB parts kit).   Or, more precisely, most of it.
The Haynes manual made it seem unwise to rebuild the autochoke mechanism
(this is a 1976 with the water choke, and I had no evidence that it was
malfunctioning) so we simply removed, cleaned, and reinstalled that
unit.  Also, the throttle spindle/butterfly assembly had no visible play
so we left that alone.  After a good cleaning and installing the new
diaphragm, needle valve, and float chamber gasket/plug, put it back on
the car and we were ready to tune it up.

the good news:  it started right up with very little cranking.  much
more than could be said for it before the rebuild.

the bad news:  while setting the timing, we noticed a tiny little drip
of gasoline and felt maybe we should shut it off so as to avoid a fire.
this is coming not from the joint where the float chamber mounts to the
carb body, but rather from the bottom of the autochoke unit.  It is (if
i understand things correctly) the housing where the piston that
actuates the valve that opens the additional fuel flow during a cold
start runs up and down, and at the bottom it has a plug with a small
brass screw at the center.   the drip appears to be coming from the area
around the plug, and is pretty slow (maybe a drop every 5-10 seconds).

so, the question is, what is causing this?   I have to admit that after
reading the list for a while, it would surprise me not at all if someone
said "they all do that, don't worry".  However, i suspect that isn't the
case here.  Is it possible that the new needle valve is sticking, and
the overflowing fuel is finding its way out therough the cold start
unit?  Alternatively, does this suggest that I should have rebuilt the
autochoke?  if i need to go back in and look at the needle valve, is it
OK to re-use the new gasket rather than getting another new one?  or is
it possible that this has to do with a new gasket somewhere (maybe
between the autochoke and the carb body) not being seated yet and should
go away?

Also, does anyone have any experience with a manual choke conversion
(legal issues aside, do they work well?)

just wondering.

thanks very much for your thoughts.

Dan

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