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RE: Elec. short TR-6

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Elec. short TR-6
From: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:24:19 -0800 a .ca.us>
> Is there really a "Dirty Word Policy" at autox.

I've no idea, but it never hurts to be just a tad circumspect.  There are
still people around who believe such things are a sin ... and I don't know
of any reason one can't be devout and own a Triumph.

> Intermittant short in volt stab????? Brake lights???? Reverse lights????
> Some kind of failure in electronic flasher unit???

Intermittent shorts are always the worst kind to troubleshoot.  My
experience has been that they are almost never inside a unit, but rather
somewhere in the wiring.  My last one was a bullet connector that wasn't
completely inside the rubber insulator.  There was just a tiny bit of
connector exposed, but that was apparently enough to contact ground under
certain circumstances.

In your case, it's not likely to be the electronic flasher, since they
normally have a plastic (non-conductive) case, and shorting all three
terminals together would not blow the fuse.  Reverse lights are easy to
troubleshoot, just disconnect the power feed, drive the car for a bit
without reverse lights and see if the problem reoccurs.  Same for the
voltage stabilizer (and the gauges it feeds).

One thing that may help : buy a self-resetting circuit breaker that plugs
into the fuse block.

I've also had a problem where the fuse holder wasn't making good enough
contact with the fuse.  Over an hour or two, the holder would get hot and
eventually melt the solder in the fuse.  Not in the center where the fuse
normally blows, but under the end cap.  Took 3 'bad' fuses in a row before I
figured out what the problem was.  Dawned on me in retrospect that the
person I gave a fuse to at Triumphest (whose name I've forgotten) was
probably having the same problem, as he also had a fuse that looked perfect,
but was open.

Randall

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