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RE: Crankshaft end float

To: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
Subject: RE: Crankshaft end float
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 09:57:48 -0500 (EST)
Cc: "'Sally or Dick Taylor'" <tr6taylor@webtv.net>, "'6 Pack List (E-mail)'" <6pack@autox.team.net>, "'Triumph Mailing List (E-mail)'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
On Mon, 11 Feb 2002, Hugh Fader wrote:

> Hi Dick.

Bob Here...
 
> Thanks for responding. I also hope there was no damage to the block and
> crank. So, I drop the oil pan and remove the rear bearing cap. What sort of
> damage should I be looking for? 

First off - don't get ahead of yourself. .096" is a lot of end-float, but
it could mean just about anything. You need to drop the pan and the rear
cap to figure out if there's any damage.

> Any symptoms I should have been able to
> observe while the engine was running? 

Not really. I ran a motor that had the thrust washers intalled backwards
for 10k miles... I noticed the end float getting a bit more than usual, so
I did the "screwdriver check" and saw that there was perceptable motion
there. I dropped the pan and noticed metal flakes in the bottom of the
pan. When I pulled the cap, I saw the damage.

In my case, the problem was that the metal to metal (backside of the
thrust washer against the crank thrust face) eventually worked through the
surface hardened thrust face and at that point the wear was very rapid
indeed!

But even with more than .050" of "slop", the crank didn't touch the main
cap. There was no evidence of interference with any of the connecting rods
either.

Bottom line - pull the cap. If there's a deep groove in the cap, the cap
is toast. Same goes for the crank, if there's rubbing anywhere that cuts a
grove, you might as well toss that.

The good news is that most of the parts that you might need are fairly
cheap to purchase. The  tough part is actually moving them from where they
likely are to where you are. E.G. these motors are heavy!

> I take it that repair involves welding
> and grinding on the block and crank.

You only need to grind if the surface is worn. You only need to weld up
the bad surface. But to be honest, it's probably cheaper to replace the
crank than it might be to weld the old one up and re-surface it. Normally,
welding up the crank is limited to cranks that are made from unobtainium.
But you should be able to "score" a TR6 crank for under $100  if in fact
you need one.

> Thanks,
> Hugh

Good luck one way or the other!

rml
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